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Does S. Wrigleyana

I need to know if S. Wrigleyana produces phyllodia. If it does, then my plant will not be going into the fridge. If it doesn't (I hope) then my plant is nice and healthy and can be put into dormancy.

So, do Wrigleyana's produce phyllodia?

SF
 
Hi SF.,
You don't need to put it in the fridge. If you want to slow down the growth and create dormancy, start watering with cold water. Put distilled/RO. water in plastic jugs and chill them in the freezer until ice forms on the surface. Also, let the Sarrs dry out a bit more. We may be the sub-tropics, but we can force dormancy easily enough.
The biggest problem we have are fungal attacks, and a systemic fungicide applied right about now will innoculate the Sarrs until spring.
Hope this helps.

Trent
 
Thanks, my other Sarrs will be outside. I will try the chilled slushy water on my other Sarrs and see how they do. I've decided to go with a half-and-half this winter (my first trial at dormancy). Half the plants needing dormancy will be outside (now getting slushy water) and half will go in the fridge. Next spring, I'll be able to tell which is better.

SF
 
I still need to know though. Does S. Wrigleyana produce phyllodia?

SF
 
You know, now that you mention it, I don't remember ever seeing phyllodia on S. wrigleyana.

The refrigerator experiment should be interesting.

Trent
 
Wrigs have strong psitt blood in them and do not produce phyllodia because they often keep their leaves all winter like psitts.
 
they do not produce phylodia but still they need to go dormant . i would'nt try that water flushing idea unless its really dry during winter , its not a good idea to keep pitcher plants wet or they can rot and fungus could start .
 
Actually, I've found the refrigerator the best place for them to rot. Here in south eastern Florida our winters are a lot drier than summer. Sarrs. dry out quickly, and will need watering. I found that refrigerated water is ideal, as it forces them into dormancy when combined with letting them go drier than normal. Now, through the couse of our predominately sunny winter weather (its why the tourists come here), you get the occassional stalled cold front and tons of rain-that's when the rot can start. It's also why I recommend a systemic fungicide. While I cannot prove it, I believe that Sarracenias are prone to certain fungal attacks in our sub-tropical climate that they would never be exposed to in a more temperate zone. Regular fungicide apps are a practical necessity down here. I've lost more Sarrs to mid-summer fungal infections than to winter conditions. I've been growing Sarracenias here in South Florida since the early '90's. They definitely can be spurred into dormancy-and it is important-or they will grow themselves to death in about two years.

Trent
 
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