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Fish in my tank

Well I have a 55 gallon tank with water an airstone,grate,preset aquarium heater set to 78F and CPs. Now if I make the water up to the grate almost then add aquarium gravel then some free floating small tropical oxygenating plants.
What fish could I keep in those temsp if I kept the water clean,well changed and so on. The water will be acidic though since there will be some runoff
Could I keep some easy aquatic bladderworts that like heat maybe with the fish(whatever fish goldfish whatever likes warm but is hardy)
I just thought I could make it look cool like add some glass beades into the jars with water then some gravel,fish and cool fish.
Thanks :D
Josh M
 
Picture001.jpg

Crappy pic sorry bad picture :(
 
idk youmight get more responses in the aquarium section.
 
Your 2 main problem problems, from most important to least, are:

1. Lack of circulation.
Keep in mind that the only reason the air stone "oxygenates" the water is because it causes some small amounts of water to rise to the surface with the bubbles. The more water that is disturbed on the surface, the more dissolved oxygen your water will have in it. Water that doesn't have a lot of dissolved oxygen won't hurt your plants, but it can potentially kill fish.

2. Lack of places for nitrifying bacteria to colonize.
There will be a large amount of ammonia in your water from extra fish food, the fishes' "respiration", etc. You need nitrifying bacteria (specifically nitrosomonas and nitrobacter) to oxidize that ammonia into nitrite and then from nitrite to the far less toxic nitrate, which would need to be removed through water changes. These bacteria need a surface to colonize, they are no free floating in the water column. Generally, this surface is provided in the various media in an aquarium filter. Having aquatic plants would remove trace amounts of ammonia and nitrites/nitrates but you would still have to change the water every once in a while, a pain in the *** when there are plants sitting on top of the water column.

If you are willing to change the water every couple weeks or so (be honest with yourself here), a betta fish, B. splendens, might be a way out of most of these issues. They don't respire as much as other fish, and can tolerate poor water quality. As for the problem with dissolved oxygen, betta fish are anabantids, meaning that they have a labyrinth organ in their head. The labyrinth organ allows them to take oxygen from the atmosphere (the air), as well as oxygen provided through water passing over their gills. Feed no more than 4 or 5 of the tiny pellets a day, or you will be overfeeding and thus create more waste in the tank.

The temperature won't be an issue as long as it doesn't drop too far below 70 degrees, and the Ph won't be an issue unless it gets down below 5, which it won't.

Sorry for the long explanation but it sounds like you don't have a whole lot of aquarium knowledge. Good luck!
 
I have minimal knowledge :) I realize that you need something for the biological filter to grow. I was thinking aquarium gravel since then water changes would be lessened.
So I guess I would need better circulation,cultured gravel(could I put in some pond water for the bacteria for colonization ?) I was thinking that free floating or fixed oxygenating plants would help along with another airstone(it is a dual output pump) then maybe a water filtration circulation system. I did some measuring it is about 20 gallons of water so I think size is not a problem. The heater is on 24/7 for my intermediate nepenthes so heat is not a problem , I have been looking at guppies since you can have a few fish without fights but then I need more filtration and other things. If you have fish suggestions or a simple idea for a setup I'd love to hear it. I have no problems changing water I'm home schooled I have lots of time for a every few week change.
Thanks for helping the aquarium newbie :banana2:
Thanks,
Josh
 
The easiest way to have an aquarium is the japanese Natural Aquarium style which is lots of live plants and few fish, using a small filter merely for water circulation, lots of light on the tank an maybe cO2 infusion supplied by sugar & yeast fed through the airstone. In this setup the plants gobble up any nutrients expelled by the fish - water is almost cleaner coming out than going in. All excess waste is removed by trimming the plants and waving the water changing syphon over the soil/gravel (but not drilling into it). This was the fashion in which I kept a bunch of aquariums before i got into terrarium plants. I had Utricularia gibba infesting my aquariums before I knew what it was. It grows in a natural style aquarium wonderfully - I cursed the stuff for infesting my beautiful manicured plants! Then after I got into CPs (and rid of the aquarium) I read about Utricularia and finally found out what that "worst string algae ever" was that I had torn down a tank for to get rid of it. So Utric does well in a brightly lit, heavily planted aquarium with Co2.

Unfortunately the stacked aquarium shown here doesn't achieve the same level of mini-ecosystem of the japanese setups. The plants ontop will block the light for any aquatics you wish to keep "low light" or otherwise. Look up "Natural Aquariums" and "Takashi Amano" on google and you should find some info, or look for the Nature Aquarium World books by Takashi Amano on amazon or at bookshops - not a lot to read in the books (tons of inspiraional aquariums though) so if you can read them for free that's best! But essentially, fill the tank with live aquatic plants (real aquatics, NOT tropical plants sold as aquatics like most of the aquarium plants at petsmart and petco), use peletized clay substrate, supplemental aquatic plant fertilization, bright lighting (4+ bulbs) and a dozen or fewer fish and some ghost shrimp as clean up agents.

One cautionary tale for you:
I never use a heater because one night I came home and even though the lights were out on the tank I could tell something was wrong, so I felt the glass and it was hot. The heater stuck on and boiled all my fish, the temp was so high it was off the thermometer. I had one baby blue ram cichlid left alive but he only survived a day or two in my neon tank. If you have your planted aquarum setup with 4+ lights overtop your water will naturally be the right tropical temps and the heater will become unnecessary. The water will hold the heat overnight until the lights come back on in the morning, and no surprised boiled fish!
 
I have light a 4 foot 2 tube 80 watt setup,I like that idea alot since I only want a few fish seriously like just a couple guppies at the most but I will have to research what plants I could use and I am sure U.gibba will do well. I was reading that they rip you since they sell plants that will live for awhile aquatically then dieoff so scientific names are my best bet/a specialty shop. I went into a aquarium shop they had alot of fish and kept lots of corals and salt water tanks they must be serious :) I was reading awhile back about a water garden since well it just sounds nice and I did do some slight reading on lots of plants water light then a few amount of fish. This sounds great then I need maybe 2 more airstones or 2 a very large ones then the correct media then plants then finally nitrate nitrite cycling plants.
The co2 infusion could be done it would be kinda fun and light well I stated that the lighting should be good.
 
Do your research - you have the internet so get those keyboard keys clacking on google. Don't assume any shop knows jack! Most are struggling and will sell you anything if you are gullible to believe it. Start by reading fish keeping web sites geared towards aquatic gardening and "natural aquariums".

That's what I was talking about, plants that die after a little while because they are not true aquatics but tropical houseplants sold as aquarium plants. To avoid that order your live plants off the intrenet when the weather gets better that way you will get real aquatics. Or get a book on aquatic plants and shop with it and don't buy anything not listed in it.

When you have thriving plants you will not use any airstones/air pumps except to diffuse the CO2, airstones/fast water movement will detroy delicate plants. When your plants have good light you will see bubbles forming on the leaves and eventually floating to the surface. This is your plants performing photosynthesis right infront of your eyes. This will only happen if you have bright lighting and after the water is depeleted of CO2 it will only happen with bright light and CO2 infusion.

To make a DIY CO2 reactor drill a hole in the lid of a 2 liter soda bottle big enough to fit standard 1/8" tubing into the hole. Silicone a picee of airhose about 4-6 feet long silicone in place on the other end attach an airstone and sucker to hold the hose in place. Unscrew lid let dry. in the bottle add 2 cups of sugar to 1 liter of warm water, shake like crazy until it's disolved, add 1/2 teaspoon of dry active yeast to frothy sugar water, shake like crazy again and replace the lid put the bottle underneath your aquarium andput the hose with airstone and sucker into the aquarum at the bottom by the soil level so the co2 has to travel the whole height of the tank before it reaches the surface, this gives it more time to disolve, if the bubbles get hung up so much the better-they'll disolve slower. the empty space in your bottle is where the CO2 gas collects as the yeast eats the sugar and the gas will be forced up the hose and into your tank where the plants can get it. Don't use glass bottles for your reactor incase the hose should somehow clog, you'll have an exploding glass grenade!
 
  • #10
Okay I understand don't trust the aquarium stores and I will buy/get a book from the library.
That will be so cool though having aquatic plants that grow in my room along with my CPs.
I have done reading about the yeast bottle CO2 reactor and I could do that it would make it more interesting. Then when the plants are happy then i'll add fish.
I could cycle the tank for bacteria by adding ammonia then letting it cycle as suggested by this site http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/information/CycleAquarium.php .
I like the looks of fancy guppies they seem economical,easy and pretty.
I can order off of the internet too I can go to some natural/freshwater fish forums for the recommended vendors. Then get fish from the local shop maybe/mail ordering fish is that a bad idea ?
I see this as another hobby/obsession/fun thing to do :D :banana2: :-D
(I used too many "I"s )
 
  • #11
Update well my mom told my dad about my idea,
I knew my dad worked at an aquariums hop years ago and had a saltwater tank but thats all I barely knew. So he talked top me man he knows alot !!!! He said a canister filtration or under gravel is the best bet. He said maybe some small catfish and some tropicals. He said the aquatic plants are a great idea. The catfish may not be my idea but heck he is helping me and will help pay too. So I guess he know alot from keeping saltwater for years then working at a aqua shop
 
  • #12
I've always wondered if something like this was possible. I was even considering placing african dwarf frogs in there since they are tiny and live in water their whole life. Please let me know how it works out :).
 
  • #13
Well my dad says it will be done easy so i'll try frogs uhh I dunno I think maybe not :)
 
  • #14
I would go with a canister filter Or even the oldfashioned hang on the back filter for a planted tank, an undergravel will get chocked with plant roots before very long, the airstones which run undergravels will put too much oxygen in the water and drive off any supplemental CO2 you attempt to add - especially with the DIY CO2 which is pretty weak in comparison to an airstone powered by a luft pump. I used to feed my CO2 output line right into the "intake" on my canister filter, when a bubble of CO2 would get released it would get sucked into the canister, blasted into tinier bubbles and come out of the canister output giving a fine spray of CO2 bubbles every 10 minutes or so. Make sure the output from the canister is beneath the surface of the water to avoid agitating the surface which drives off the CO2 and artificially infuses oxygen in the water which is the oposite of what you want to do in a fully planted aquarium.

Yes, definately get the plants happy first then add the fish. You will not need to introduce any chemicals to start up the bacterial cycle if you are using live plants. There will be plenty of live bacteria on the plants which will breed and spread over all surfaces in your aquarium and filter, just give it a little time, ading a tiny bit of flake food will help speed up the bacterial population but only use a pinch, too much and the algae will kick in, blocking light from the plants and they will die leaving you with a green soupy mess!

When starting your planted tank go for fast growing plants at first such as Hygrophilla, Cabomba, etc. avoid things like Java Moss and slow growing rosette plants like Amazon swords, etc. because when the tank is cycling algae will be doing it's best to destroy your work thesefast growing plants will suck up all that nutrients and can be cut and immediately replanted next to the stand you cut them from so keep the water pure while the litte eco-system is getting settled. After a month or two of this you can start to remove the excess plantings of the fast growers add the slower growing "show" plants like colorful water lilies, amazon swords, etc.. Planted tanks are so fun, just talking about it is bring back all the old memories! ...it's only the water changes I don't miss! :)

Fish and plants by mail is fine if the shipper knows what they're doing. You can get live plants and fish from www.aquabid.com it's like ebay but for fish! I got many of my killifish off there back in my fishkeeping days since they are next to impossible to get at the fish shops. I like Killis because they've very small but most are as colorful as saltwater reef fish and much easier to keep! Most killis are Annual meaning they don't live long but as long as your aquarium doesn't dry up like their pools do in the wild they will live 2+ years. Aphyosemion australe is an awesome non-annual species and is about 3-4", very freindly, bright orange, non jumpy and will even eat from your fingers. They also spawn like mad, if you would like to try raiusing babies with hatchling brine shrimp these guys are great fun!
 
  • #15
My dad may say not to get things like fish ,snails and animals from the net but I will get the plants. So I see get the aquarium plants that grow quick. So I could grow some very small tropical lilies ? I can do canister I see those my dad says those are great like you have a sponge for the bacteria and then carbon pellets. My dad will have to do an airstone in there I will place it away form the plants. Man I m so looking forward to this :)
Those fish sound interesting ,I may try to buy some plants from aqauabid since plants are easy to grow if I win some for very cheap that are fastish growing that could give me an edge before my dad gets home. Aqauabid is interesting I think I'd prefer ebay though for plants.
 
  • #16
Why will you HAVE to do an airstone? If your plants are creating oxygen there is no need to supplement, it is in fact, not good for the plants by driving off CO2 and it generally creates too much water current and will shred the more delicate frilly plants such as cabomba and hygrophilla difformis (which can be planted or left as a floating mat plant).

Once the fast growers are establishing then you can remove some of them (not too many) and put in the big Nymphaea lilies and sword plants but you wanna get the plants processing all nutrients in the water before dropping in the slow growing stuff (in a month or two) because they will take longer to establish and start absorbing the nutrients.

Once the things like lilies and amazon swords start absorbing nutrients you may have to start fertilizing your aquarium with aquatic plant nutrients. I like Seachem's line of aquatic fertilizers. Iron is especially important to keeping your aquatics green, and it is the hardest nutrient to keep on supply in your aquarium water. I suggest an iron test kit and Seachem's liquid Iron supplement. You want readable levels of iron (but not high) but as long as it's detectable in your test your plants won't turn yellow from cholorosis which afflicts every heavily planted tank before long. in addition to Iron, a general liquid aquatic plant fertilizer that's high in potassium is pretty much mandatory for keeping the plants in top notch shape (potassium enables aquatic plants to absorb nutrients easier).
 
  • #17
It is my dad I could convince him but he is hard to do so.
I can get Iron and Nitrite Nitrate tests. I posted in 2 forums for fish I'm looking on those forums for some buys/Trades (CPs for aquarium plants ???) for some plants and later maybe some snails and fish. I need to get the canister filter for my tank, gravel,test kits then get that ready then I have some extra strip lights I could use for the back sides of the tank.
Then plants then after cycling fish.
 
  • #18
he he I know what it's like trying to change your dad's mind! I gave up on teaching my dad stuff years ago, nowadays I let him see things not working out only then do I tell him what to do to fix it when he's completely frustrated! :-D

I would not inentionally put any snails in your planted aquarium unless you mean Malaysian Trumpet Snails (they look like tiny white unicorn horns with a black body coming out of the shell), these MTS snails are only 1/4 - 1" in length and are burrowing nocturnal deterious eaters living on dead leaves, old fish food, etc., other types of snails will gobble your healthy plants before they go for dead stuff. Nowhere sells MTS but they often arrive as eggs on live plants, remove any snails you find that are not white and conical (long and pointy).
 
  • #19
Okay I understand and THANKS for the help :)
I will remove all non white shell snails and keep the ones that are white conical shells with a black body :)
I may be able to get some plants from a member here then I can get plants wihout spedning much money other than shipping. If I do trade for them i'll prepare the water then gravel then the canister filter.
 
  • #20
Okay I am getting plants ( THANKS :D)
Then gravel made for plants with nutrients then the iffy things are light should be okay then filtration I think the old style inside of the tank box since canisters are like $50.
 
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