I have the following species for trade. All of the tuberous species are dormant.
D. abberans (used to be whiitakeri subsp. abberans)
D. menziesii subsp. menziesii ( plants get very red, almost crimson late in the growing season)
D. erythrorhiza subsp...
Although D. cistiflora is a winter grower the nighttime temperature in its habitat never gets much below 3-5c. Anything below 0c and you are risking foliage damage. You might want to try growing them outdoors and then bringing them inside on the coldest nights.
I agree - your macrantha is on its way south for the summer. Mine are doing the same thing right now.
The plant will slowly blacken from the top down and all of the trapping leaf tentacles will curl inwards. Depending upon the plant's subspecies or affinity you can expect the stem to slowly...
I have the following to trade for established plants of N. gracilis (any form) and/or N. ampullaria (any form).
Drosera menziesii subsp. menziesii (dormant tubers)
Drosera abberans 'Pyrete Ranges, Victoria, Aust.' (dormant tubers)
Drosera cistiflora pink flower (as summer dormant roots)...
Yes - but with some protection when temperatures go below 35f or so. They really grow best when temperatures are above 45f. Any prolonged period that is colder D. regia will go into dormancy. Most above ground growth will die back.
In my opinion whittakeri is one of the easiest tuberous dews to cultivate, particularly in its dormant stage. You can keep it bone dry or slightly moist during summer. I think it actually PREFERS slightly damp dormant conditions in that the tubers I have in that arrangement are nice and plump...
Dormancy is regulated by temperature AND photoperiod. Just continue to keep your plants well lit and fed. They will start going dormant at a time of their own choosing and it will become quite apparent with gradually browning foliage. At this point stop all watering and let you pots gradually go...
Here is a shot of one of my pots of menziesii. I have found that it is just about as easy to grow as peltata and replicates itself like capensis. I started with two plants in 2005!
February and March are my favorite months for menziesii. The whole plant goes very red while flowering.
I have been growing two types of this drosera subspecies, the sand form and laterite form, for several years. This past fall I decided to pot them up together and see how the dews compare next to each other. Here they as of January 1st:
I have had this plant in my collection since last summer. It was labeled as D. brevifolia. It strongly resembled brevifolia while still small but then grew up and out.
This drosera resembles spatulata, possibly the kangaroo island form. What do you think?
No prob! It happens.
A few years back I sent a grower a few dormant peltata tubers, protected by a quantity of peat/sand. The tubers didn't survive come fall but he did wind up with a few volunteer D. hamiltonii, probably from root remnants left in the soil!
Last summer I traded a grower for some CP. In return one of the plants I received was what the grower thought was D. brevifolia. It turned out to be a form of red spathulata.
If you have some spare D. brevifolia seed - and know that it is the real thing! - please consider a trade with me. In...
Wow..orbiculata! Now that is a rare one in collections. I used to grow this plant but the tuber decided to divide itself while in dormancy then subsequently perished.
Do your plants produce viable seed?
Sorry - I mean D. neocaledonica. The label on the plant that I got had 'caledonica' on it. Duly noted.
Looking at the CP Photofinder images it is clear to me that many growers have had much success with this drosera. I'm just wondering what the trick is! My plant seems smaller and younger than...
Anyone grow this plant?
I'm trying to find out if D. caledonica prefers highland, intermediate, or lowland conditions. My plant is currently growing under lights and has been VERY slow to put out leaves or dew up to any appreciable amount. The humidity is constant 60-70%, bright T5 lights, and...