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  • #21
I would say to take the drosera you have the most of and test the fertilizer out on ONE plant. Separate it from the others but give it the same light/humidity and all that. If the plant survives the first fertilization, try the twice a month method on the plant and after a couple months, compare it to the other drosera and see if it made a difference.
 
  • #22
Here's what I do with my Drosera and Sarracenia seedlings.

I feed my Drosera once a week with freeze dried daphnia. It's small and light enough that it's absorbed by the leaves before fungus even has a chance to think about growing. I know that Daphnia doesn't have many nutrients in it, but the plants want the Nitrogen and Phosphorous, which is all in the shell. The entire freeze dried animal is dissolved within a few days (hours for the pygmies). The growth rates I've been achieving can't really be argued with. For D. cistiflora I've been doing this twice a week to get them as large as possible before summer.

For Sarracenia seedlings I give them a 1/4 diluted foliar spray of orchid fertilizer once a week. We managed to take S. purpurea from seed to 3 inch long mature shaped leaves in less than a year with this method. I do the same thing, but my growth rate at home has been much slower. It helps to flush the media with pure water once a month.
 
  • #23
Isn't S. purpurea one of the slowest growing Sarracenia? What were the conditions of the S. purpurea? I didn't even consider fertilizing my S. oreophila (when they are done with cold stratification and planted and finally sprout). How old should a plant be before they are fertilized?
 
  • #24
Purps are pretty slow. They'll grow at about any temperature as long as it's not enough to trigger dormancy. You can fertilize as soon as the first leaves show up.
 
  • #25
Exactly which orchid fertilizer do you use?
 
  • #26
Miracle-Gro. I'm probably going to switch to Better-Gro soon. It works, and there's not much to argue there.
 
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