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  • #21
@Jimscott: That's Vancouver, Washington State. We're across the Columbia River from Portland, Oregon.

In that case.... who's your buddy!? If you ever get seeds...
 
  • #22
My plants experience winter temperatures at night around 64-68°F (18-20°C). The only ones that have ever gone dormant on me are D. paradoxa. It has been remarked by other growers that D. paradoxa seems to go dormant at random times.

These are cooler temps than I would've expected. What are the daylight temperatures like?

We experience random dormancy by D. paradoxa too...which is why we do the divide and conquer strategy. Manual divisions for backups against losses. LOL

Random dormancy is kind of a scary concept. 'Guess we have answered the question about paradoxa dormancy. Divide and conquer, ha!:-D

I know D.Lanata can get nights as cold as 5-6C in winter, but this is normally only for a few nights at a time, and the days are still in excess of 24C, so I would imagine it would have to get pretty cold for a sustained period to induce a dormancy, there is a population near a town called Herberton, and they have recorded temps as low as 1-3C, but 5-6C is the coldest I have ever recorded at a location with them (west of Mareeba near a mates place) and it is never sustained for more than a few nights.

Wow! That is extreme. It's great to have temperature data from the area of the native growing sites.

I have spoken to a commercial grower who has grown petiolaris 'dews and he reports success with temps down into the mid 50 degree F. range (low 'teens C.) as long as daytime temperatures made it up into the 80's. (high 20's to low 30's C.) So, it seems the idea that wooly sundews cannot continue growing if they experience more moderate temperatures is a myth. This certainly makes it an easier proposition for someone without crazy heating devices to grow them. Another growing concept I have heard is that petiolaris complex sundews don't like temperature swings. This also seems to be contradicted.
 
  • #23
Those are some beautiful petiolaris Droseras you have there. Is that D. falconeri? :-O

I've just recently acquired some paradoxa, ordensis and broomensis seeds. Looking forward to them germinating. They should be easy to maintain here in Trinidad but time will tell.
 
  • #24
In that case.... who's your buddy!? If you ever get seeds...

Seeds are something I'm currently trying to run down. We'll see...
 
  • #25
Those are some beautiful petiolaris Droseras you have there. Is that D. falconeri? :-O

I've just recently acquired some paradoxa, ordensis and broomensis seeds. Looking forward to them germinating. They should be easy to maintain here in Trinidad but time will tell.

Yes, it is D. falconeri. The other plants are D. paradoxa, D. dilatato-petiolaris, D. lanata and D. ordensis assuming the last ones survive having been divided.

That's a nice score on those seeds. 'Sounds like your climate should be great for them. I would like to hear how they do.

On your avatar - are those kiwi fruit? Whatever they are - impressive plants!
 
  • #26
Yes, it is D. falconeri. The other plants are D. paradoxa, D. dilatato-petiolaris, D. lanata and D. ordensis assuming the last ones survive having been divided.

That's a nice score on those seeds. 'Sounds like your climate should be great for them. I would like to hear how they do.

On your avatar - are those kiwi fruit? Whatever they are - impressive plants!

Beautiful falconeri... been trying to get my hands on some of those seeds but no luck thus far.

Those aren't kiwi that's Coccoloba uvifera... we call them "seagrapes" down here and they're one of my fav fruits. You usually find them growing near the coast mostly by the sea (hence the name ;) )The green fruits turn dark red when ripe, but they don't ripe all at once, and are salty-sweet... that's why I love them so much... timing them is not easy and at most I only get a handful if I'm lucky.

I'll be sure to update you on the plants when they germinate!
 
  • #27
Beautiful falconeri... been trying to get my hands on some of those seeds but no luck thus far.

Having seed would perhaps put you ahead just a bit. I wonder if any and all D. falconeri that one is likely to see in this country are not the same clone from AG3? The same for some of the other petiolaris species. I really like the idea of having seed-grown plants so there is a greater chance for genetic diversity, and the possibility of producing single-species seed.
 
  • #28
Wonderful Petiolaris E-Book

Perhaps many have seen this book, produced by the AIPC in Italy, but if you love petiolaris sundews and you haven't it is certainly worth a look. If it were fine-bound in hard-copy it would make an excellent coffee table book. But it's not just about the wonderful photographs. It has hard to find information of every sort including a cultivation section and descriptions and photos of individual species. The information about how to get a copy is here: http://www.aipcnet.it/aipcjoomla/index.php/component/content/article/16-pubblicazioni-editoriali-aipc/457-aipcs-special-issues.html For us english speaking types it comes in a nicely translated english version.

For $10 they will send you a cd copy (in PDF format) or you can ask them to just email the file to you. And the money goes to support a very worthy CP preservation project. 'One of the best things I have seen on the subject.
 
  • #29
The Species

It might be useful to spell out the established species of the petiolaris complex as they now stand. If anyone has updates or knows of any I've left out please feel free to add to this list.

As I understand it the species are:

Drosera banksii, D. brevicornis, D. broomensis

D. caduca, D. darwinensis, D. derbyensis

D. dilatato-petiolaris, D. falconeri, D. fulva

D. kenneallyi, D. lanata, D. ordensis

D. paradoxa, D. petiolaris


There are also the plants with the aff. prefix on their names, such as D. aff. paradoxa. Aff. is short for affinis, which essentially means this plant is like D. paradoxa. Whether these are new species, new forms or subspecies, or hybrids remains unestablished. While the current taxonomy seems pretty messy it has improved in recent times and several aff. plants have been named as newer species. We can hope that someone with the necessary training and abilities will soon work to further clarify the others with the aff. tag.


P7253934-Crop.jpg

D. paradoxa


P6213740-Copy.jpg

D. falconeri
 
  • #30
What it all comes down to for me is the petiolaris sundews need all the regular things sundews need: relatively high light levels, lots of water and fairly standard Drosera soil. But what they need besides is humidity in the 70%+ levels and temperatures that never go below the 70's F., unless you are intentionally inducing dormancy. How you produce these conditions can vary a lot. In truly tropical climates they can be grown out of doors.

Hey, what is the source of your humidity? is it just a tray and your terrarium keeps all the humidity in? because i don't have a terrarium but in the setup I'm experimenting in the humidity is right at 40% humidity when it is 97 degrees F and at night the humidity is 80/90% when the temps are in the low 70's. do you guys think this will work? thanks for the help! :D

PS. I don't have any plants yet I'm experimenting before i get any. And any newbie tips you can give on growing petiolaris complex sundews would be much appreciated! :)
 
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  • #31
yes. that will work. very well as a matter of fact. dont be afraid to bump up the max temps either. they can take it up to 120-125F in the wild.
 
  • #32
yes. that will work. very well as a matter of fact. dont be afraid to bump up the max temps either. they can take it up to 120-125F in the wild.

is it ok if the temps regularly get into the low 60s at night as long as the daytime temps get in the 90s?
 
  • #33
low 60s is tolerable, but yes, the plants can operate in those conditions. the higher the daytime temps the better if you're going to pursue this route. if you could insulate the tank, you might be able to bump up the temps to 65F at night, which is a safer range.
 
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  • #34
i was thinking about getting one of those seed starting heat mats to put under the tray and it would raise the temps 10 to 20 degrees F, but before i check out $23.00 on one i might try insulating better. then again i might just get one to be safe in case of an exceptionally cold night
 
  • #35
could be something as easy as encasing the tank with styrofoam slabs.
 
  • #36
ya i'm not using a terrarium, i'm using a shelf with a 4 foot light fixture sealed in with bubble wrap and reflective insinuative material but i could still do somthing like that...

and, Hey thanks for the advice and words of encouragement! ;)
 
  • #37
Hey, what is the source of your humidity? is it just a tray and your terrarium keeps all the humidity in? because i don't have a terrarium but in the setup I'm experimenting in the humidity is right at 40% humidity when it is 97 degrees F and at night the humidity is 80/90% when the temps are in the low 70's. do you guys think this will work? thanks for the help! :D

PS. I don't have any plants yet I'm experimenting before i get any. And any newbie tips you can give on growing petiolaris complex sundews would be much appreciated! :)

I have been told that at least some petiolaris 'dews can do fine with temps into the 50's (F.) as long as they see temperatures into the 80's during the day. Amphirion is the more experienced grower so I would take his advice.

The humidity source is a layer of water at the bottom of the tank my plants are growing in. They are in pots in small trays on a raised platform of egg crate. There is a very small fan that blows down against the surface of the water and circulates the air throughout the terrarium. There is also a glass cover on top.

In my experience petiolaris 'dews like bottom heat so a heating mat might be a good way to go. I would suggest that you start your collection with D. paradoxa which seems to be more tolerant overall than some of the other members of the group.
 
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  • #38
Banksii and petiolaris are a world apart, no relation there, same with subtilis, they are unique and appear to be a tuberous drosera at first glance (like a pygmy peltata), but instead grow like burmanni or indica as a annual (although some burmanni and indica can live for a few years if they hit the right bog/seep).
 
  • #39
Thanks you guys, and Mark you mentioned that you have a fan to circulate the air in your tank, is this this absolutely necessary to have good air circulation? because in my setup it is almost completely sealed in. Will this work or would you recommend a fan for circulation?
 
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  • #40
beautiful dews bluemax thanks for sharing
 
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