Banksii and petiolaris are a world apart, no relation there, same with subtilis, they are unique and appear to be a tuberous drosera at first glance (like a pygmy peltata), but instead grow like burmanni or indica as a annual (although some burmanni and indica can live for a few years if they hit the right bog/seep).
Thanks you guys, and Mark you mentioned that you have a fan to circulate the air in your tank, is this this absolutely necessary to have good air circulation? because in my setup it is almost completely sealed in. Will this work or would you recommend a fan for circulation?
I had a horrible time trying to keep my pots from being anaerobic. Forbes didn't even try & his pots were very anaerobic - & his Petio's grew like weeds - they cared a lot less than I did - silly me!A periodic top-flushing of the pots, say every 2 months or so, will help keep the soil 'sweet'. At least this has worked for me.
When I saw this post, I was surprised to hear that there were more species added to section Lasiocephala - but alas - the list was "new" in 1996.I was drooling over some great photos of sundews the other day and I came across a link to a magazine with a paper describing the more newly-listed petiolaris sundew species. Sometimes I wonder if I actually have the right species name and I am guessing maybe a few more out there have had the same issue. There are even line-drawn illustrations: http://florabase.dpaw.wa.gov.au/nuytsia/article/253
When it's something good, it's not really spamI'd include links to the books on Redfern but don't want to appear to be a spammer
Hey, my new Drosera Paradoxa is producing anther plant on is stem. I'll try to post pics later when I get home, but how long should I let it grow before removing it for repotting? Thanks!
What it all comes down to for me is the petiolaris sundews need all the regular things sundews need: relatively high light levels, lots of water and fairly standard Drosera soil. But what they need besides is humidity in the 70%+ levels and temperatures that never go below the 70's F., unless you are intentionally inducing dormancy. How you produce these conditions can vary a lot. In truly tropical climates they can be grown out of doors.
It seems to me like they are some of the most difficult Drosera to grow. They are like the Heliamphora of Drosera. I have a lot to learn until I can grow them. Could lowland Nepenthes be grown in these conditions? Your setup is so involved that I feel it wouldn't make sense for me to set it up for one plant or just a few. The night drop from a Mediterranean climate wouldn't help.
I would assume most lowlanders could be grown in these conditions. Just make sure they are more of the swamp variety.
My falconeri was doing well in my terrarium, but once I finally figured out to get some lower temps for the other plants (low 60's) the falconeri took a plunge. It went from about 1 1/2" wide to almost in dormancy. I ordered a few high ceiling grow trays and have since moved my falconeri, ampullaria, and bicalcarata into the closet. Temps easily get into the 80's with the 4 T8's and, since it is in a closet, it rarely drops below 75 at night. They have been in there for about 2 weeks and all three plants have been kicking ***. The falconeri shot back up from a diameter of about 1/2 inch and is almost back up to its previous size.
So when they say don't let it drop below 65F, that is not a suggestion lol.