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D.natalensis & D.madagascariensis"botswana"

J

jodajo21

I am about to receive natalensis and madagascariensis from Tamlin,and i need some help. I know they are south african but its big place. Any body know the ideal temp to sow their seeds in what is an ideal night temp. and what is an ideal day temp? Iread tamlins post  </span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">South Africa falls into the southern Temperature Zone enjoying a warm climate all  year round. A Mediterranean climate prevails along the Cape coast with winter rainfall.  Summer is from October to March.
Temperature varies from lows of 15º C (60º F) to highs of 30º C ( 96º F), with occasional chilly nights.  

Winters require warm clothing, and are wet from frequent rains. Winter is from April to September.
Temperature vary from lows of 0º C (32º F) to highs of 18º C ( 66º F).


Humidity is high in the summer, less in the winter and less the further inland you go. There is a lot of sun in both seasons.

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These are winter growers are they not? so are they going to do better in temps from 32-66F or would these do better from 60-90 F, are they going to need a summer dormancy? are they going to need a dormancy at all?

Thanks

Joel
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These species will do fine in any range between 55F - 80F. Occasional lower or higher temps. will not matter. They grow year round, and have no dormancy except for Drosera madagascariensis which dies back and returns from it's roots after a short dormacy. All are suitable for a warm well lit terrarium standing in a couple cm rain or distilled water. Botswana can stay in the tray during dormancy too, no need to dry this off. They appreciate cool nights.

The species which are wintergrowers (12 hr. photoperiod) are alba, cistaflora, pauciflora, hilaris, trinervia, cuneifolia: these require a dry summer dormancy.

Other South African tropicals which grow year round include aliciae, burkeana, capensis, "coccicaulis", collinisae, madagascariensis, natalensis, nidiformis, slackii, venusta.

D. regia is a bit of a case in itself and one species I have had little success with. Martin could tell us more on this species.

Other uncertain species are affinis, galbripes, pilosa and ramencetacea all of which I have little experience with.

Most seed of the tropical varieties germinates best in warm, humid conditions, and may take up to 2 months.
 
Tamlin please write a book on drosera!
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Funny that you should mention it, but I have been working on just this very idea: "Growing Sundews from Seed: The Art of Rare Species Preservation". Don't expect publication anytime soon though, but I am writing it!
 
Seriously Tamlin, I'd like to reserve my copy now, please!
 
do me favour give me a ruff draft will ya? who cares about the rest of the world, all that maters is that i get one.
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Ai-Yah! I received an email from a prominent 'tropical' Drosera dealer that D. madagascariensis 'Botswana' required no dormancy, and could survive temperatures into the high 80's! Yet I hold Tamlin's wisdom in the highest regard!

Well, too late now. I've already ordered the plant. Time will tell, and not for years because I can grow even Venus Fly Traps and other unsuitable CP species for at least a year here in Hawaii. Longevity will take a while to establish.

Incidentally, I'm all for supporting the sponsor of these MBs. But since I can only grow 'tropical' CPs, I'm in a bit of a bind. If I ever need a Nepenthes, I'll contact our host, you betcha'!

Johji
 
I am not sure that you could call the "sp. Botswana" rest a true dormancy. For me the plants grow on an ascending stem, and when it gets tall it seems it's life cycle is over. I assume flowering would be when the stem is at it's peak, but this form is very shy in flowering. Mine never have. When the stem reaches the limit of it's growth, the process of dying leaves along it's lower length accelerates, and the stem itself dies. Both times the has happened in a matter of weeks new growth is noted at the base, I presume from the roots. Keep it under the same conditions as when it was growing, and it should return in a short time. BTW dead leaves along the stem is not a sign of poor culture, and is just part of the plants normal cycle.

Thanks all for the nice compliments
 
Tamlin I think if you wrote a book or books, maybe even a coventure with other drosera veterans. Containing cultering info on specific varieties or a book encompassing most varieties it,it would advance the growing of drosera by would have taken many more years. It would make the harder to grow species seem much more accesable to the average grower.If more people grow them, then more information on  there culter  will be made available alot quicker.I think alot of people who grow drosera need better referance guides, a singular main source by which to feel more confident growing the rarer more difficult species, thus making the rarer & more difficult not quite so difficult and rare.  
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You seem to have a nack for describing their care in an easy to understand way, even for very inexperienced growers. please write a book or at least post a sight with essays on the care of all the drosera you have grown.
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Hey Ive got it-SUNDEWS FOR DUMMIES. The savage garden Isnt always right or have the best ways to grow cp's but it has emboldend people to grow cp's That other wise would not have ventured into these plants they feel more confident tackeling something that they have at least some base knowledge of.
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cheers,

Joel
 
  • #10
I am not sure that you could call the "sp. Botswana" rest a true dormancy.  For me the plants grow on an ascending stem, and when it gets tall it seems it's life cycle is over.  I assume flowering would be when the stem is at it's peak, but this form is very shy in flowering.  Mine never have.  When the stem reaches the limit of it's growth, the process of dying leaves along it's lower length accelerates, and the stem itself dies.  Both times the has happened in a matter of weeks new growth is noted at the base, I presume from the roots.  Keep it under the same conditions as when it was growing, and it should return in a short time.  BTW dead leaves along the stem is not a sign of poor culture, and is just part of the plants normal cycle.

Thanks all for the nice compliments! I enjoy sharing what I've learned (often enough the hard way) to appreciate what a difference a little good advice can make.

(At the same time, I am very much in favor of individual research into the subject of CP culture. Please refer to my post "How to do a Websearch on CP")
 
  • #11
Sorry if Iam asking a not so intelegent quesion but where is that post? I did a search on it and went through many postings but was unable to locate it? i probely overlooked it are you sure its still here?
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  • #12
jodajo21,
 I just found it myself.  He posted it in the General Discussions forum about 25 minutes ago.  Look in the 'Lazy People have black thumbs or...' topic

Tamlin, thanks. Sometimes the obvious is so easily overlooked.  I've been to that database several times and it hadn't occured to me to use it that way.  What can I say?  Just a little slow upstairs occasionally.
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edited 9-14-02 @ 10:43
 
  • #13
If you were slow upstairs would you really be here, doing this? These plants have summoned the brightest of minds, the most inquisitive, since Darwin's time.
 
  • #14
most of the people that i have traded with over the last month have been proffesors, one i beleive was head of Emmory Universitys Human genetics research and developement, so we are a special breed, we may all be albert Einsteins in different areas remember they said Old Albert couldnt tie his ownshoe or remeber the simplest of things, I take great hope in that.
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Joel
 
  • #15
Well there you go then! Like the plants themselves, Cpers are a breed apart. Good thing too: the plants need intelligent people to help preserve them.
 
  • #16
Ive got another question, I have read that most people use a mix of 2/1 peat sand for their south africans, does any body here use long Fiberd sphagnum instead? Iv heard of other people having a better experience when they deviated from using the standerd peat sand mixes and went with long fiberd sphagnum. I have not seen south africans specificaly mentioed in these statements.If no one here has any experience here with this ill just go with the standerd mix for now, at least until i have seed baring plants from the seeds I have now.
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  • #17
Long fiber spahgnum is a fine medium for many Drosera species, and many indeed prefer it. Some prefer peat/sand. This is another area where research can provide good information. Generally bog dwellers prefer sphagnum whereas flood plain species do will in the peat/sand mix.

There are a lot less algae issues with sphagnum as the natural acidity deters its growth. Why not try some of your seedlings in both mediums and see what the results are?
 
  • #19
Thanks plan on it,
I am going to keep some sort of journal on this. Best mediums temps water levels,which almost nobody mentions, I have had to search for pics to find out best water levels.
wether or not they prefer it soaked, wet, or farely dry. On harder species people do get alot more detailed thats easy to find info on, like gladuligera theres no end to the detail and thoeries. easyer species Nobody really takes the time over details detail like the perferd moister or drainage, which is rather frustrating.  
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cheers,

     
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Joel
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