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As a devout exponent of the species, I am pleased to announce that D. hartmeyerorum can be reliably germinated and grown during the cool and smoggy season (that's winter, to you non-Southern Californians).
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Here's a picture taken today. The plants are in a two inch pot filled with pure, fine (unwashed) sand, residing in a tray six inches under four fluorescent bulbs. The tray sits on a commercial heat mat that keeps the air at soil level between 75 and 80 degrees F. The humidity hovers between 30 and 50% which is the system's saving grace. I tried to grow some plants last winter in a terrarium heated by an aquarium heater, but the constant high humidity stunted their growth.
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This picture is from early fall. The conditions were the same for this plant, with the exception of the heating mat which was not used.

If anyone has a different method for growing this species, I'd love to hear about it.
 
Thanks for the info Forbes. I'm about to sow seeds of this species for the first time. My heated tank is in my greenhouse. It is heated using an aquarium heater but the tank has no lid so hopefully doesn't get as humid. I have no idea what the humidity gets to in there but the petiolaris complex species grow superbly. I plan on using pure sand. Do you supplement yours with any type of food? Also, 2 inch pots are quite small. How deep are they and how many plants do you grow per pot?

Sean.
 
What an amazing color, is D.hartmeyerorum always this strong red?
 
That is an absolutely gorgeous plant!

Can it be propagated by other methods such as leaf or root cuttings?

Thanks for sharing that beauty.
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Suzanne
 
gorgeous drosera, Forbes! Can you tell us more on how you came to owning samples of it? Thanks-Zach
 
That's the best grown plant of this species that I have ever seen. Good work, and thanks much for the account of your methods. Someday I hope to try this species, and the help is valuable!
 
Thank you all for the kind comments.

William,
Thanks for the endorsement, though you probably will need to revise it after you see Ivan's plants.

My seed came from the LACPS seed bank, Zach. Ivan Snyder has distributed an amazing amount of seed from this species, as well as publishing an informative article on the LACPS web site (most of what I have said here comes from communications with him). I doubt he has extra seed at the moment, as he only grows it in the summer, though. If you'd like to trade for some, I should be able to accommodate within the next few months.

[b said:
Quote[/b] ]Can it be propagated by other methods such as leaf or root cuttings?

I haven't tried. Ivan said you can re-pot the top of a declining plant with moderate success, but will only get vigorous plants from seed. Once you have the conditions dialed in well enough to grow a plant from seed to maturity, it's much easier to grow the second generation.

[b said:
Quote[/b] ]What an amazing color, is D.hartmeyerorum always this strong red?

The plants pictured are the reddest I've grown. Like D. falconeri, it doesn't do well where a fairly substantial amount of the pigment is produced, but can be grown greener than the plants pictured.

Sean,

When I tried to grow hartmeyerorum in my partially-ventilated petiolaris tank, they didn't grow much beyond the seedling stage. The light, temperature, substrate and water were the same as I used in the summer, so the extra humidity must have been at fault. Maybe I should have put a quartz cluster on the soil surface to organize the tank's aura... Be sure to try some seeds in the tank, they should germinate well in there, but plant some out and save a few to sew at the beginning of your summer. These plants don't seem to care how well the petiolaris complex species next to them are growing.

The plants pictured are in 2 x2 inch (5 x 5 cm)square pots (labeled “2 ¼”). Ivan grows his plants in 2” round pots. I've recently switched to the round variety (got a free case!), and definitely recommend them over square for use with sand. Getting a scrap of cloth to cover all the drainage holes in a square pot can be messy.

As to the amount of plants in a pot, root space doesn't seem to be an issue. I like to plant singly to better observe their form, but have to provide quite a bit of support to keep them upright. They have a trailing habit in nature, so you may find a wide pot best.

Feeding the plants insects seems to help. Spring tails do this satisfactorily for seedlings if you have them on your soil; fruit flies are great for the adults. Ants (!) and dried bloodworms to a lesser degree.

For those who obtain seed: Yes those specks should work. They really are that small. They keep well in the refrigerator.
 
Nice looking plant Forbes!  Do you have any pics showing the growths at the base of the stems?

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BCK
 
Thanks, Steve.

I don't have any decent shots of those strange yellow orbs yet. I'll try to get one tomorrow.
 
  • #10
Hey, don't you go poking fun at my aura balancing crystals.....you never know!
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  • #12
I have a love/hate relationship with this plant
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First time I tried, I was able to grow them to about 1.5 inches tall.  Then winter came along and they all died.  Second time I tried, I had 50+ seeds successfully germinate, but they died months later.  Haven't given up yet, hopefully I can get my hands on some more seed and try again.  I'm bound to find the winning combination sooner or later
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  • #13
Thanks for the links Christian. There were a couple I didn't have.

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BCK
 
  • #15
Does anyone have pictures of seedlings? I curious to see how they like after germination.

Thanks!
 
  • #16
That really is gorgeous. Only 80 degrees? Just when you think you have the poop on something, somebody finds a new angle.
Great job!

Regards,

Joe
 
  • #17
I have a batch of seedlings growing in among some indica. The media is something like 5:1 sand:peat. As has always happend with me when growing indica all but two of the plants in the pot have arrested at small size (I am guessing there is some kind of growth inhibitor being out out by the two large plants which are at opposite sides of the pot.) These have all been growing strong out in my sunporch about a meter below a 400W HID/MH light since August. Late summer temps were still getting to 100F but the winter highs have been 60 tops and I have had nights were the temp in the sunroom dropped below freezing. All the plants are still alive and healthy. Hopefully after the two large indica flower one or more of the hartmeyerorum will kick into growth.
 
  • #18
<span style='font-size:12pt;line-height:100%'>Travis,

Try sprinkling a little bloodworm powder on one or two of the leaves of the smaller plants (for precision I use small forceps and my loupe). That's what makes them take off for me.

Tip: avoid getting any on the larger plants until the smaller ones have caught up --- it won't take long.</span>
 
  • #19
Hi all,
I got seeds around the same time as Forbes but hadn't sowed them until a little while ago. I've been growing them "au naturel" so here's a picture of two seedlings with morning light, temps 65-75, humidity approx 60%. I took this picture a few months ago, they're now about 2" high but the coloring is the same green/yellow with reddish tips (like a capensis) I'm sure things will pick up when I start getting spring/summer light.

The yellow emergences looked like bits of pollen to me.



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  • #20
Bloodworm powder? Joe are you delving into 15th century alchemy again, lol?

Regards,

Joe
 
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