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What is your method of germinating

jimscott

Tropical Fish Enthusiast
Except for capensis, burmannii, and dielsiana, which germinated within a week, everything else takes "forever."
 
I sow the seeds by carefully rolling or tapping them off a folded sheet of white paper.   Sow them on, not in, the medium.  The seed must not be covered.   Remember as they roll off, each has the potential to become a plant, and try not to over sow your seeds.  25 seeds is a good planting, and after attrition you should still have all the plants you will need.  Try to drop each seed by intent, not by chance, and keep the spout of the paper moving around.  It is easy to roll them to the center of the pot, but try not to focus there, rather more toward the rim.  Seeds will make it to the center all on their own with little help from you.  Its harder to sow them toward the rim so concentrate.  Immediately label the pot.  I suggest marking directly on the pot, not the ziplock bag.  This is a *very* important detail.  Do not wait, do it immediately or you will get confused over time with the potential of spreading this confusion exponentially to other growers if you make an error.  This caution applies to “expert” growers as well as “newbies”:  No one is immune, and I have received misidentified material from many respected sources.  This is one way that mistake can happen.  If you do lose a label, you will have a 6 month wait to know what you are growing, and will also have an adventure in taxonomy trying to figure out what you have!

The label should contain as much data as is possible.  All collection data regarding locality, elevation is very valuable information and should be retained, as there is considerable variation in droserae populations.  I also mark the date the seed was sown, along with the scientific binomial or cultivar name if applicable.  Keep a record of where the particular seed came from, in case there is need to correct an ID, or communication is needed.  I use a code that refers me back to a notebook entry containing this information.

Once the sowing done, I generally ziplock the pot in a bag, with maybe 1 cm pure water at the bottom.. I zip the bag shut, and place it in indirect light.  You want to keep the light levels low until you note germination.  Light at this stage of things only encourages algal growth, and the seeds do not require it for germination.  Don’t place them under the lights if you can possibly avoid this.  I use no subsequent water until germination is noted, unless there are evident signs of drying of the medium.  Seed does not have to be in a soaking wet medium, just moist.  I never spray the medium since this often washes the seed away and buries it.

The time until germination will vary according to species from 2 weeks to 2 years.  You must be patient, and not give up if the plants do not appear.  Keep the bag as long as you can afford a bit of space for it somewhere.  I have had Brazillian species appear after a years wait.  Petiolaris complex plants germinated after 6 months.  D. glanduligera and D. arcturi took close to 2 years.  There is no excitement that compares to seeing a forest of seedlings when you had long given up any real hope.  There is *always* hope, provided the culture is not overgrown with moss and algae.

After a long wait, if nothing appears I usually retain the original labels, but I resow the pot with seed from other genera, with a new label.  There can always be surprises, and I hate to waste anything.  By this time the culture will have proved itself free of algal or bryophyte contamination, and is a good bet for valuable seed of another genera, since there will be no further worries of contamination.  For this reason I like to prepare my medium as far in advance of sowing as possible: it gives time for potential problems to appear

Temps of even 70F with little night time drop will facilitate germination in most species, the exception being the winter growing Australian and African species.  Some possible places to keep seed is atop the fridge, on the stove top if you have gas pilot lights, sitting above the ballast on fluorescents.  I have gone so far as to put a pot on top of my computer monitor, but be SURE there is no drip!

Once germination is noted, plants should immediately be placed close beneath fluorescents.  Be wary of exposing the seedlings to direct sunlight too quickly, although this is to be encouraged over time, along with a gradual lessening of humidity.  I leave the seedlings sealed for a week after germination, then I crack the seal for longer and wider periods over time.  Once the bag can safely remain totally open, I transfer the pot to tray watering and begin normal culture under strong light indoors, or direct sun outdoors here in Upstate New York after suitable hardening off over time.
 
The only thing I can add to Tamlin statement is that all Australian tuberous sundews need cool nights as well many will need some sort of smoke treatment such as smoke water, etc.
Also GA3 (A plant hormone) can very useful with old seeds or just plain hard to germinate seeds.
 
Thanx!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is incredibly useful. Can this be pinned?
 
You would need to ask an empowered Moderator. I would suggest that it go in the "Article" forum vs being pinned.
 
Okay, I'll bug PAK.
 
[b said:
Quote[/b] (jimscott @ May 12 2004,7:04)]Except for capensis, burmannii, and dielsiana, which germinated within a week, everything else takes "forever."
Dude, you should be happy with 'a week'.
wink.gif
 
Mine takes forever! And I really do mean forever...
wink.gif
 
Tamlin, why you not a mod anymore?
wink.gif
Did you do something bad...
biggrin.gif

BWT, did I read that HUGE post of yours in one of your other posts? Sounds incredibly familiar...
wink.gif
 
  • #10
My above post is a reply I saved for responding to this perennial question: it saves my wrists from having to retype the same protocol, so yes, you have seen this before, LOL.

I resigned my Moderator position, feeling that my association with Terra Forums might discourage participation in the North American Sarracenia Conservancy by members of the CP Listserve, where I have been painted as an ignorant and mean person. A former TF member, now banned, and who is active on that listserve has enlisted the aid of his cronies to continue his successful campaign of propaganda against both myself and this Forum, implying that it was my position here that had him banned (but this was not the case). Since the NASC is an effort needing all the support it can get, I felt it best to bow out of the association in hopes of bringing in some of the Listserve members, and just be a simple member offering what I can where I can here. It also let me respond to certain elements in his cadre when needed in a "no holds barred" manner, without anyone being able to construe this as further action by Terra Forums. In other words, to be as "not nice" towards them as they are to me. The CP Listserve is unmoderated, and such flame wars are all too common there, spoiling what would otherwise be a fine place.

In fact, it was these propaganda tactics that got this particular member banned from this forum to begin with. Such flame wars are distasteful to me (and to many others), but when you are attacked it sometimes is necessary to stand up for yourself and retaliate, even if this puts your character in a bad light. It's the schoolyard bully thing. Some people never grow up!

I suppose it doesn't matter as I have dropped off the Listserve, since it is now useless as a tool of education or communication (at least for me), thanks to these few (but dedicted) unkind folk.

I really have no desire to be seen as anything other than a contributer to this Forum. I have no need for either a Tamlin Fan Club, or a Tamlin Hate Circle, and it makes me sad to think that such exist since I feel I have done nothing to generate either!

So, now I do just what I always have done, without the title. BTW I never accepted the Moderator position when it was offered to me, but Phillip made me a Mod anyways, the little Devil!

It's not your Title, or letters after your name that earns you respect, it's what you do and show the world, and I am quite assured that I have the respect of most in our worldwide community, and that I am neither ignorant, unskilled, or unkind despite concerted efforts to make me appear so.

I have been asked this question many times by TF members, and I hope this clarifies the issue.
 
  • #11
Hehe.. That post is actually an excerpt from a much longer post (actually 2 posts) that Tamlin made about a year or so ago. I have the entire thing saved if anyone cares to read it all.

Cheers
Steve
 
  • #12
Yeah, I would!
 
  • #13
As requested.. here is the article in entirety.

Cheers
Steve


Handbook of Drosera seed cultivation.
By: William "Tamlin" Dawnstar

Seed has been sent to many growers from the Dawnstar Collection :) I want to present to you my thoughts on how to best succeed with the coming adventure many of you will have growing this seed into beautiful flowering plants.

We begin with the consideration of the meduim onto which the seed will be lightly sown. This medium should be both clean and acidic.

The best germination medium is finely milled New Zealand long fiber sphagnum spread in a layer on pure peat. The acidity and natural antifungal and antiseptic properties of this medium will discourage the growth of opportunistic fungi and algae, which is a very important step towards winning the game! Seed can germinate and damp off in hours if attacked by fungi. You will never even know it was there.

When I say clean, I mean the peat used should be well rinsed prior to its use. The sphagnum as well should be rinsed with pure distilled water prior to its use to remove any trace micro nutrients that will allow the growth of fungi and algae. I leave my peat open to the rain for the season outside, so it is always ready for my needs. I sterilize it in the microwave before use. The moss I plunge in a bucket, squeeze out the water, repeat. The moss is then milled in a food processor until fine, and is ready for use.

Pots should be new and clean, and any water used should be distilled. Not rain! Rain water usually carries algal spores with it from various sources of contamination. If tray watering is used, the trays should be squeaky clean, and the water distilled.

The reason for all this care is that if your seed becomes involved with the life cycle of fungi, algae, mosses and liverworts, your seed will not germinate, or it will be so compromised seedlings will die shortly after germination, or languish without good development.

Will it always happen if you don't take precautions? Maybe not. But if you get some rare seed that is a once in a lifetime try, do you want to chance it?

The sterile peat is put in a pot or tray, and the milled moss spread 1 or 2 inches deep. The medium should be moist but not very wet. I find the disposable food storage containers to be ideal as the can be sealed and reopened easily.

If you are awaiting seed, now is a great time to begin preparing the medium. It is best to have the medium "age" a little, and to observe it for any potential problems.

There are reasons for such precautions. Many of these species have evolved in habitats that have been washed clean for millions of years. They have no natural defenses against many of the various fungi and other opportunistic byrophytes for they are not present in the plant's habitat.

Later, when the plants have established and built up some strength, things can ease off a little. Rain water can be used, humidity decreased, etc. They establish quickly if there is no competition.

Remember, little things make big differences in growing CP with success. The more you can do in little things, the more the plants will reward you. Don't be scared, it's really not a difficult thing :) You can do it!

Next Chapter: Sowing the Seed :)

I know everyone has read the prior post on the importance of a clean medium. Now that the substrate is ready for the seeds, all that remains is the careful sowing of them. The seeds I sent all were stored cold and are ready for sowing without any additional need for stratification.

I sow the seeds by carefully rolling or tapping them off a folded sheet of white paper. Sow them on, not in, the medium. The seed must not be covered. Remember as they roll off, each has the potential to become a plant, and try not to over sow your seeds. 25 seeds is a good planting, and after attrition you should still have all the plants you will need. Try to drop each seed by intent, not by chance, and keep the spout of the paper moving around. It is easy to roll them to the center of the pot, but try not to focus there, rather more toward the rim. Seeds will make it to the center all on their own with little help from you. Its harder to sow them toward the rim, so concentrate. Immediately label the pot. I suggest marking directly on the pot, not the ziplock bag. This is a *very* important detail. Do not wait, do it immediately or you will get confused over time with the potential of spreading this confusion exponentially to other growers if you make an error. This caution applies to “expert” growers as well as “newbies”: No one is immune, and I have received misidentified material from many respected sources. This is one way that mistake can happen. If you do lose a label, you will have a 6 month wait to know what you are growing, and will also have an adventure in taxonomy trying to figure out what you have!

The label should contain as much data as is possible. Do not use marker pens, laundry pens, or any ink that is not India ink. A soft lead pencil is much better. Ink fades and washes away. Make sure the label sits well into the medium, or bury it at a corner of the pot if you dont like the look of it sticking out. All collection data regarding locality, elevation is very valuable information and should be retained, as there is considerable variation in droserae populations. I also mark the date the seed was sown, along with the scientific binomial or cultivar name if applicable. Keep a record of where the particular seed came from, in case there is need to correct an ID, or other communication is needed. I use a code that refers me back to a notebook entry containing this information.

Once the sowing done, I generally ziplock the pot in a bag, with maybe 1 cm pure water at the bottom.. I zip the bag shut, and place it in indirect light. You want to keep the light levels low until you note germination. Light at this stage of things only encourages algal growth, and the seeds do not require it for germination. Don’t place them under the lights if you can possibly avoid this. I use no subsequent water until germination is noted, unless there are evident signs of drying of the medium. Seed does not have to be in a soaking wet medium, just moist. I never spray the medium since this often washes the seed away and buries it.

The time until germination will vary according to species from 2 weeks to 2 years. You must be patient, and not give up if the plants do not appear. Keep the bag as long as you can afford a bit of space for it somewhere. I have had Brazillian species appear after a years wait. Petiolaris complex plants germinated after 6 months. D. glanduligera and D. arcturi took close to 2 years. There is no excitement that compares to seeing a forest of seedlings when you had long given up any real hope. There is *always* hope, provided the culture is not overgrown with moss and algae (see the prior topic on preparing the mix for details on this, and how to avoid it)

After a long wait, if nothing appears I usually retain the original labels, but I resow the pot with seed from other genera, with a new label. There can always be surprises, and I hate to waste anything. By this time the culture will have proved itself free of algal or bryophyte contamination, and is a good bet for valuable seed of another genera, since there will be no further worries of contamination. For this reason I like to prepare my medium as far in advance of sowing as possible: it gives time for potential problems to appear

Temps of even 70F with little night time drop will facilitate germination in most species, the exception being the winter growing Australian and African species. Some possible places to keep seed is atop the fridge, on the stove top if you have gas pilot lights, sitting above the ballast on fluorescents. I have gone so far as to put a pot on top of my computer monitor, but be SURE there is no drip!

Once germination is noted, plants should immediately be placed close beneath fluorescents. Be wary of exposing the seedlings to direct sunlight too quickly, although this is to be encouraged over time, along with a gradual lessening of humidity. I leave the seedlings sealed for a week after germination, then I crack the seal for longer and wider periods over time. Once the bag can safely remain totally open, I transfer the pot to tray watering and begin normal culture under strong light indoors, or direct sun outdoors (with appropriate screening until acclimization is reached)here in Upstate New York.

My best wishes to you all. Happy sowing.
 
  • #14
Thanks, Steve! Saved to favorites!
 
  • #15
Thanks, Steve! Saved to favorites!
 
  • #17
He did - and it's a continuous collection of sagely articles, slowly but surely accumulating in the CP article forum.
 
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