What's new
TerraForums Venus Flytrap, Nepenthes, Drosera and more talk

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Nepenthes burbidgeae and Jamban advice

Was after a bit of advice on growing these two plants burbidgeae and Jamban, they are on the way in the post and was wandering where best to grow them and can they grow on a windowsill with a daily misting morning and evening.

I also wanted to know if a nepenthes puts out a pitcher and it doesn't inflate right away can it inflate at a later date.
 
Well..I don't own jamban, but peeps around here say it's pretty hardy, so it may do well on a windowsill.

burbidgeae is another story...I grow this one, and I find that it needs a ton of light and humidity over 60% to pitcher well. Unless your indoor humidity is over 60% and you have a very sunny window, it probably won't do too well.

And yes, sometimes, pitchers will suddenly start inflating long after the tendril has reached it's full length.
 
both plants have a reputation of being very hard to pitcher....growing them actually isnt to hard in and of itself.

it depends on whether your windowsill will provide sufficient sunlight. you're going to need at least 6 hours of direct sun with both plants. humidity/misting shouldnt be a problem provided that you properly acclimate your plants to lower humidity conditions....

having both, im going to say that jamban is much easier than the two, and is more robust. burbidgeae, while being (my opinion) one of the best looking nepenthes on the planet, is a very slow grower....takes about 2-3 months to open a new pitcher, and can only hold at most 2 pitchers at one time...but who knows, that could be because im growing it wrong.

generic mix of 1:1:1 cork bark, long fibered sphagnum moss, and perlite/pumice will work for both plants.

exo might be on to something with high humidity and burbidgeae pitchering....although i've always had high humidity in my setup (2 ultrasonic foggers) so i've never had problems making it pitcher for me---but it is painfully slow.
 
for me burb is an easy and fast grower.....temps are 80-85 during the day 55-65 at night depending on time of year and its currently in constant 80-85% humidity....couldnt tell yah exactly why its growing great for me other than it must like where i have it, have not tried it in other conditions though that may change soon as its almost to big for my grow out tank.....

dont grow jamban
 
I grow both those plants and find them to be pretty easy actually. Sadly, N. rajah is the hardest plant for me so far. I haven't grown it successfully long term so far...only in brief spells. Anyways...I find jamban to be very easy and very fast. burbidgeae is a bit slower, but still faster than lowii or villosa.

I am unsure if they can handle windowsill. Depends on your humidity. In my room, humidity is 20-23%. Very low. So...unquestionably NO in that humidity. If you are having 50% humidity or so, you can probably pull it off with good results. They just have to be acclaimatised properly with frequent misting.

Check out "Nepenthes around the house" website. (no spaces) You can find some good advice over there as well.

Regarding your question about tendrils...pitchers can inflate on a tendril as the plant is opening the next leaf. However, if the conditions aren't correct, it can abort.
 
@vraev: maybe Zuz can chime in...she grows her neps on a patio in San Diego---aka "super low humidity land".... as far as i know she's growing jamban successfully, dont know about burbidgeae though...
 
For sure...She might have some good insights.
 
My small burbie's making small burbie pitchers and my smaller jamban now that I cut the main vine out to let the basals take over is making smaller jamban pitchers. Honestly they're both easy in comparison to say... singalana or hamata, but jamban is definitely the easier of the two: it's downright weedy!

..here's the jamban last summer (it likes it warmer than chilly-highland I've figured out this winter):
P8030052.jpg


P8140006-1.jpg


...and the burbie's new so it's not doing much *yet*
 
My burb is making a new leaf atm, and it's only made one pitcher for me since I got it. I really just acclimated it to lower humidity, but it's getting hotter and hotter in S.CA and it looks like it's getting slower and slower. I think it needs colder days since the nights here in s.CA are 40-60's, but during the day, it can get up to 90F where I grow my plants.
 
  • #10
WoW thanks for the great replys, this is a much better forum than the others I have used.
When people say direct light, do they mean direct sunshine shining on the plant?
Should I cut off dead or dying pitchers and leaves?
Is Lady Paulinae the same to cultivate as these two?

It boils down to what is more important for the plant I have windowsill with 50 - 60% humidity with no direct sun or conservatory with morning and evening direct sun but lower daytime humidity of 30 - 40 % and night 50-70% which is better? the conservatory gets better night temperature drops


Sorry for all my questions fairly new to neps.
 
  • #11
Hi Predator, it's our pleasure to answer your questions, especially if it's about nepenthes. Sadly, I stay in a tropical country so I have absolutely no idea of how your four seasons conditions would be like! If you refer to direct sunlight, yes it means the full sun shining upon the plant. But, I believe that in your conditions, you should expose the plant only to morning sunlight or evening sunlight as afternoon sunlight will literally burn the plant.

Pitchers should only be cut off if the entire pitcher has completely dried up. Sometimes, the top half of the pitcher will dry up, leaving the bottom half of the pitcher still alive. Usually, the pitcher will absorb every single bit of nutrient as long as the bottom half of the pitcher remains alive. Good examples of such pitchers would be the species N mirabilis. Cutting dead leaves are alright and does not seem to affect the plant.

I have never cultivated Lady Pauline before, but it will certainly be easier and more vigorous compared to burbidgeae and maybe jamban. All nep hybrids tend to show more vigour and easier growth compared to their parents.

I think your conservatory would do better with highland nepenthes, though I do believe that during summers, it can get really hot as well. Generally, keep humidity above 50% for best results. Highlanders do best if there's very high humidity level in the night, 80-90% (or even 100% if possible). Try not to expose your neps to really strong light. Good luck!
 
  • #12
I grow my neps in really strong light and they do rather well, as a matter of fact, I find that burbidgeae likes a great deal of light. However, I do find that to grow well in this kind of light, the humidity has to be over 60% or there can be leaf burn.
 
  • #13
I'm growing both jamban and burb in a west-facing window with supplemental fluorescent lighting. I do try to keep the humidity up above 60%. I do this by misting in the morning and evening and surrounding the pots with damp live LFS moss. I keep the window cracked at night so it gets nice and cool. Daytime temps can range 60's to 90's (depending on the time of year).
 
  • #14
Howdy. Ill try not to repeat what everybody else has said. I don't grow jamban, but have burbidgeae for a few years. I grow Burbidgeae on a lighted grow rack under moderate humidity. Well draining mix, mostly peat, permits, some LFS, and a top dressing of LFS. Leaves and pitchers have been consistently getting larger, but it is a slow grower. I only see maybe 3 pitchers a year. I have read that once the plant get some size it can really take off. I actually have it growing right next to x Lady Pauline, which is an easy and fast grower. Shouldn't have.any problems with that one, it is easy and very showy.
 
  • #15
Here's some pictures of my most recent N. Burbidgeae trap. It opened a few days ago. That's a N. Spectabilis tree in the background. haha

<a href="http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm317/herrkaleun7/June%2005%202011%20Plants/?action=view&current=IMG_3709.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm317/herrkaleun7/June%2005%202011%20Plants/IMG_3709.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm317/herrkaleun7/June%2005%202011%20Plants/?action=view&current=IMG_3708.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm317/herrkaleun7/June%2005%202011%20Plants/IMG_3708.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
Back
Top