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Aphids , socaugh

Recently my neps expect for the hanging basket got a few aphids on them, nothing serious....yet. But I noticed this about 2 days ago and just ignored it, because i thought it was just some insect. After looking at GIS, I found out that they were aphids, I grow my cps outside, so I found the aphids on the grass stalks and other common weeds, so I uprooted all the grass I can and put them in the garbage and double check every nep thoroughly for aphids, no matter how much I removed, one aphid will always be there. My other cps aren't affected by the neps, the sundew and ping even caught some and some were drowning in the water trays. What'sa good insectiide or should I do the drowning method or will the aphids eventually move out, I noticed lots of ants, but that's usual for my neps, but none of the ants were feeding from the aphids.
 
Umm... what happened to Mike Tyson and Chuck Norris? Anyway, aphids are definately nothing to be ignored and not something that will move on. I think flea collars around plants keeps them away and an insecticide that works w/ CP's should do the trick.

-D. Lybrand
 
What insectide will work for cps and I though flea collars were bad for cps/
 
Hang the flea collars where they won't come into contact with the plants, soil, or water. The fumes from the collars will ward off the aphids, but if the stuff in the collars dissolves into the plants' water supply, there'll be trouble.
Acephate (AKA Orthene) works best and is safe on just about all CPs, but is toxic and can't be used on plants that live in your home. If you apply it, the plants must be quarantined to the outdoors or a greenhouse for a month. It's the active ingredient in Ortho Systematic Insect Killer, available at most hardware and garden stores. Orthene is nice because it not only kills the bugs on your plants now, but it will kill any bugs that feed on your plants for several weeks after application (that's what the 'systematic' means.) There are some other artificial insectides that work on CPs, but they're just as toxic and not safe for all CPs so I don't pay them much mind.
Pyrethrum is an option for some plants. It's a natural derivative of chrysanthemums, so it's safe indoors and even safe on fruits and vegetables (after washing, of course.) The downside is that it is topical, meaning it only kills the bugs that it touches. It often needs several applications to completely treat an infestation. It is harmful to the tentacles of Drosera (it kills the tentacles but the leaves are left intact) and the pitchers and flowers of Sarracenia, and I don't know how other genera react to it. However, it's the only thing sold as insecticide I've encountered that's both safe indoors and recommended for CPs.
I remember hearing that a dilution of rubbing alcohol or apple cider vinegar work for many pests on CPs, but you should do some research on that before you go hosing your plants down. Those methods would also be safe indoors, and possibly cheaper than commercial insecticides. And don't forget about drowning - you can submerge VFTs and many Drosera for a few days in RO water to kill off the bugs. Just make sure to completely cover the plants so the aphids can't climb to safety - a few months back I tried to drown a flowering D. spatulata without submerging the blooms and ended up with a dozen flower stalks of aphids.
Best luck,
~Joe
 
I have ortho rose and insect killer, will this be ok and it's in a spray bottle or does it have to be in a powder form. I grow all my cps outside, so is it ok to spray all the cps. Even if they don't have any signs of aphids just in case, and for the ones that do have aphids, Do I keep them separated from the ones that don't have aphids after spraying the insectide?
 
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