There is the constant battle between needing constant moisture and the tendency to rot...this is where the strong light comes into play...must kill off some of the rot...keep trying.[b said:Quote[/b] (Est @ Jan. 09 2006,7:21)]Good luck! My one attempt at rooting a cutting has been a slow crashing burn despite my efforts.
[b said:Quote[/b] ]There is the constant battle between needing constant moisture and the tendency to rot...this is where the strong light comes into play...must kill off some of the rot...keep trying.
That's interesting...I will try this some time. I admit, my method seems dangerous but nonetheless I have good success. It may be that my GH is located in full sun and the plants' only shade is from structural components and other plants. Maybe this illustrates Nepenthes' overall adaptability to many different situations.[b said:Quote[/b] (SydneyNeps @ Jan. 09 2006,12:02)]I don't know whether it's in fact helpful or merely apocryphal, but I keep my cuttings in lower light conditions for about a month or so after taking them. The theory is that high light levels promote leaf growth, which detracts from root formation. The lower light allows the cutting to concentrate on roots. The lower light it also a more gentle way of treating a cutting as it doesn't have the means of regulating temperature as a rooted plant would.
I also support the comments that mildly damp & humid is enough. Waterlogging is a good way of rotting cuttings. They don't need much moisture as they don't have the roots to absorb it.
And perhaps that is what she is having success with rooting in this manner. I'll have to check and make sure.[b said:Quote[/b] (SydneyNeps @ Jan. 09 2006,5:16)]Cuttings can be taken in water for those species which grow and root quickly, like gracilis and x Ventrata. I'm sure there are other lowland species which would work well. But many highland species can be particularly slow to root, and standing them in water for that length of time would be more likely to see them rot before rooting.