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Hi all,
I have been having some problems with some of my plants lately, hope can find out what am I doing wrong and how to stop it.

Firstly,
copelandii Apo from BE.
yes its an intermediate plant trying to grow in extreme lowland here in Singapore,
but it was doing fine for 2+ months, bringing out leaves which were O.K. and slightly smaller pitchers...
24799ebb.jpg

then this pitcher,
82245262.jpg

then these 2 horrible leaves!
53a442ce.jpg

its in cocochips, perlite, charcoal, bark 2:1:1:1 mix, 70% shade. The only changes so far is the monsoon period to a slightly hotter period... But i doubt that the temp made this change!

second,
a problem with 2 giant form raffs: Bau giant from MT and BE-99 from BE...I understand they are not THAT difficult plants, but yet seem so fussy to me!
Bau giant: has been with me for 1 year, 70% cloth, has pitchered total of 00001 times and has increase total of 00000mm in terms of leaf size! planted in cocochips, perlite, charcoal and peat (I think).
17cb4c0e.jpg

BE-99: Has increased in size slightly, planted in cocochips, perlite, charcoal. The stuff on top is cocopeat. Most obviously, the rust spot on this plant is terrible! I have never used fungicides before but after so many months with no improvement I had to! (havent observed any improvements ever since application - i used captan) anyway, the plant has not been growing (no leaf size increase) and whats worse, it has stopped pitchering on the last 2 leaves...
ca7d55e2.jpg

975a4365.jpg

another BE-99 which has not been growing...even shrinking slightly!
b3e09e42.jpg


I know the most likely problem would seem to be burning or overexposure to light. But I doubt it because these plants are all under 70% shade and they only get these filtered rays for 3 hours daily, light is blocked out by the building most of the time. And BE uses 80% shade for them, how much difference could there be?

Lastly,
campanulata from MT
in charcoal, LFS, cocochip, perlite mix.
have no idea whats wrong. I understand their pitchers should last longer...shouldnt they?
0994e784.jpg


Appreciate any help given. Just general info: I live in Singapore, 1 degree off the equator. Water daily, temps are 24-34 degrees although 34 is quite rare (we got it 3 times last week, this week has been cloudy and wet) and I use 21-21-21 dilute 50% and applied to foliage weekly.

Thank you,
Lam
(PS forgive my horrible spelling, typing rather quickly, is there anything unclear?)
 
For a start, I don't think too much light is the problem, raffs are often found growing in full sun. It may be your mix. When you say cocopeat, do you mean the fine stuff, or the coarse coconut coir. If the former, it may be too dense and also if you didn't soak and rinse it thoroughly, the pH may be too low. Some coco products are also high in salt, so need to be rinsed thoroughly prior to use. I suggest using a coarse coconut coir-based mix which has been thoroughly soaked and rinsed.

The copelandii will not do well long term in true lowland conditions.
 
I would second what Joel said. I see 2 other possible problems as well. I see you are useing the coconut chunks, thats good. I use the same mix. coconut chunks perlite charcoal and just a touch of chopped shpagnum. That's it. no coir.You don't want to use the crushed stuff that is like hair. It does not dry out.
But it still looks like you have possible root rot. possibly too much watering. the mix should be loosely packed so that air can get between the chunks. I suggest you let the "soil" pretty much dry out between waterings.
You may have mites as well. I know I always tell people this, but its because most people get them at some point in the year. the mites are bad enough for the plant, but they also bite the leaves, and fungus get's in the bites. So not only do the mites weaken and deform your plant, but they also spread fungus.

So. I suggest you repot your effected plants in a looser mix. make sure you ph the water that your going to soak the coconut chunks in to about 5. Then spray your entire collection with a good miticide, and systemic fungicide cocktail twice 10 days apart. Alliette is also very good for root rot. So you may want to add some of that in too.
hope that helps  
smile.gif


robin
 
ok i dont know about the others but with N. Campanulata, did you feed it? their pitchers will only go down hill if you feed them...not the plant itself but the pitchers. the walls are rely thin.
good luck
alex
 
Hi,
thanks all for replies,
firstly, about mites. I was told this was the cause by another forummer. Will check and get miticide...does it harm to spray uninfected plants?
About 'soil': I dont know whats coir, but I use the chunky stuff, but the BE-99 has top dressing of cocoPEAT to keep moisture in, the fine stuff (becuase its roots werequite shallow)
However, I find it quite hard to belief that ALL the plants infected with mites
how would the damage look like? as seen in the BE-99, yes I belief... but are ALL the plants suffering from it, as in can the cause for the poor growth in, say camp, be caused by mites yet hardly any visible signs? (because its in a rather coarse mix, I would hardly suspect root rot 
confused.gif
 
and about the root rot, It is usually gradual right? so by the time the symptoms show above ground level, I should expect some substantial damage below? What are the symptoms I should look out for next time?
Thank you
 
Hi Lam
[b said:
Quote[/b] ]does it harm to spray uninfected plants?
No it should not hurt them. I use avid, or akari for mites, and Zyban, and or Aliette for fungus/root rot.
They may not all be infected with mites, but you can't see the eggs, and sometimes cant even see the mites, so unless you spray all your plants in the area, you may miss some of the mites.

The campanulata damage could be mites, or not enough air to the roots, or some kind of fungus, or all three.  They all work together. Mites thrive in overly humid conditions, (above 60%) and so does the fungus in the leaves, and possibly the roots. The mites open all the parts of the plant to infection. So even if you spray fungicide, if you don't kill the mites, they just keep reeinfecting your plants.

If possible, lowering the humidity to around 55%-60% will help alot with all of your problems. Your plants will have a tougher skin, and be less suseptible to mites and fungus. Plus the mites and fungus cannot thrive in the lower humidity.

What I look for usually is..
deformed leaves, slow growth, yellowing...................... mites
progressively smaller leaves, slow growth, yellowing.......root rot, or root suffocation, or fungus..and or mites.

bad dreams at night .......itching.........depression................................mites!!!

Your nepenthes should be growing fast, and look healthy and green. if not, something is usually wrong.

I'm no expert on the subject, I'm just sharing from personal experience.

I can't usually see the mites either Lam, just the damage. But i sure can tell the difference a couple weeks after I spray. All my guys turn green again, and start to pitcher, and really start to grow fast (for nepenthes anyway)
Hope that helps
robin
 
Hi all,
Thank you very much for the help,
unfortunately, the weather is now very humid and wet! humidity never below 75% and I am growing outdoors so cant control this.
regarding Mites,
I cant find miticide here, (not shocking, nurseries here dont carry superthrive, 30-10-10 ferts, or orchid bark either!
smile_o_32.gif
 ) only insecticides: systemic and the 'normal' type.
there are 2 types I think I can use: malathion and white summer oil.
I havent bought anything yet, although someone also recommended systemic as the mites suck the sap hence... ...
What do you think and what are your experiences with these?
for treating mites.
thanks
 
Hi!
I am writing you from Italy and I can tell you that I have a Copelandii from 1 mt high and it is a very easy plant.It seems not to demand a lot of light. from what I can tell you after to have checked your pics....maybe the problem should be in the soil....really strange because I also here in Italy I am using 40% coconut chips mixed with 10% perlite and 30% peat moss.
I have also 2 Nepenthes campanulata in the terrarium and I can confirm you that their traps don't last for long time. It is a shame and I understand you.
I have no help for the rafflesiana.
Bye

Mr_Aga
Milan - ITALY
 
[b said:
Quote[/b] (Lam_wn @ Mar. 31 2006,6:20)]only insecticides: systemic and the 'normal' type.
there are 2 types I think I can use: malathion and white summer oil.
I havent bought anything yet, although someone also recommended systemic as the mites suck the sap hence... ...
What do you think and what are your experiences with these?
for treating mites.
thanks
I have used Orthenex many times on neps with no problems ever.  It is the one sold for roses, which is listed as a systemic.  It is a combination of an insecticide and fungicide all-in-one.  I understand you can buy the components seperately as well so be sure to get the one listed for pests and fungal infections in the same product.  I use about 75% full strength and have never had any ill-effect from it, and it has removed scale for me with great results.  I in fact just applied it to a large truncata that was getting reddish spots on the leaves (not typical sun-reddening) and the latest leaf that unfolded is immaculately green and succulent looking.
 
  • #10
Mites can be easily seen with a small hand lens. They have eight legs so nothing else will have eight legs if you see anything. Mites usually occur on the newest leaf and may make the leaves curl or roll in an odd turn that is abnormal for the plant. Many times mites will gather at the newest growing tip, whether it is a new leaf, a tendril or even the pitcher itself. Miticides are the only effective solution to this problem. But spraying a miticide may also destroy beneficial mites that feed on other mites. So with this turn of events, may I suggest wetting your plants thoroughly when watering. Mites dislike water in any way. But if you must use a miticide be sure to spray it with two alternating miticides. This can be expensive.

Mites could possibly the result from mites coming off from the place you purchase your plants. If your delaer also sells desert rose (Adenium spp.) and or Crown of Thorns (Euphorbia millii) you most definitely have mites. Perhaps he/she is not aware that it is mites that makes their leaves sad looking, not due to nutrition or soil wetness.

Your mix is too wet. It is fine to keep the root ends near saturation point on some species, but keep the surface area loose and open-airy at all times. The addition of pumice and or perlite is a big plus when it comes to making a near perfect soil mix. Peat moss and fine orchid/fir bark chips are also good components. Some charcoal added to the bottom of your pot is a good crock for drain holes and root bottom soil rests. Hanging your pots especially at an angle will also help drain all the excess water from collecting in the pot. This channeling of water also helps leach salts and dissolved gases which may cause some damage in the long run.

Michael
 
  • #11
I also see that you use mesh pots as I do. But perhaps you are OVER-potting them so that your soil stays wetter longer than is desired.

Here are a few of my plants in mesh pots allowed to air dry quickly and easily when placed above a cement wall.
d850b9c8.jpg


Michael
 
  • #13
Hi all,

just checking, I finally got pics.
BE-99 underside of leaf:
(not that I expect you to see little mites there)
a0b44852.jpg

truncata:
d44a5d9b.jpg

(underside)
b56d1f47.jpg


what is wrong with the truncata? I still have not found miticide yet, will check durign weekend. I dont think truncata is mites right?

BTW, rainforest, those are thorellixtruncata s? very nice!

Thanks
 
  • #14
[b said:
Quote[/b] (MrAga73 @ Mar. 31 2006,10:39)]here in Italy I am using 40% coconut chips mixed with 10% perlite and 30% peat moss...

Mr_Aga
Milan - ITALY
Mr_Aga, you're growing nepenthes only using 80% total anything in your soil! It's magic!

Caplsock
smile_n_32.gif
 
  • #15
If those are thorelli X truncata, I better get more of those...
smile_n_32.gif
 
  • #16
[b said:
Quote[/b] (Capslock @ April 05 2006,8:24)]
[b said:
Quote[/b] (MrAga73 @ Mar. 31 2006,10:39)]here in Italy I am using 40% coconut chips mixed with 10% perlite and 30% peat moss...

Mr_Aga
Milan - ITALY
Mr_Aga, you're growing nepenthes only using 80% total anything in your soil! It's magic!

Caplsock
smile_n_32.gif
Very funny!!!
smile.gif
smile_n_32.gif
 
  • #17
Merit is good for Mites and its a systemic. It can be found listed as Merit on the internet or found in many bayer products now. Its not called marit in the bayer products. It goes by its chemical name. I posted the thread from another board here someplace talking about it.
 
  • #18
Lam_wn ,
ohhh..what I see ...what I see....something one person that got THE SAME problem as mine!
Ok...now I want to know from you EVERYTHING that has caused this problem with your truncata!!!
Look at mine last year last days of AUGUST 2005 :

truncata_ko3.jpg


truncata_ko2.jpg


truncata_ko1.jpg


truncata_ko.jpg


I got this problem with my truncata highland as she begun to take very hot temperatures and a little less neon light . ( I turned OFF 2 neons in order to have 2 Celcius LESS in my already hot terrarium ). Since I turned off 2 light I put her higher and more near to the neons.
I think that in the plant something has " taken " controll over it. The plant was in those conditions about 2 months and with fresher temperatures and more again more neon light it begun slowly to grow better.
Of course...when I saw the plant in this conditions what I have done?
I have put for 1 hour outside the terrarium the plant and I have used this product with her :

insetticida.jpg


The VIRUS, or ILLNESS that she had has dissapperead quickly and the leafes were growing without noticing no more illness points....
But with BEGIN of SEPTEMBER 2005 the problem were not ended....I HAVE LOST nearly 9 months of POGRESSES of my growing truncata because the illness had damaged also GENETICALLY the plant : infact the FOLLOWING 4 pitchers , even the optimal estabilished terrarium conditions, were deformed and not with simmetric hairy wings.
It was not normal that a 16 cm pitchers was already OPEN already at 4 cm of grow!
REALLY : MY TRUNCATA HAS REALLY SUFFERED and I had 9 months of following problems in order to let the problem totally dissapear!
This last pitcher ( the infamous pitcher that I feeded with a living fish ) had open itself at 16 cm and continues to grow until 22. This is not normal of course.
But at least I have noticed that the most is probably OVER!
Please write me Lam_wn about your future incoming experiences with Nep. truncata. My email is webmaster@piantecarnivore.org . I am also curious to know how many months your plant will need to get totally rid of the ILLNESS.

Mr_Aga
Milan - ITALY
 
  • #19
Hey Mr. Aga:

It's a leaf spot fungus. Hopefully you'll find friendly systemic fungicide to control it.

Gus
 
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