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Cindy

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I've got these recently. They were grown under lights and had cooling at night down to the 50s. Humidity is ~85%.

N. hamata (MT)
N. veitchii (Bareo, Wistuba)
N. burbidgeae (crocker range, MT)
N. faizaliana (MT)
N. macrophylla (Wistuba)
N. hamata (Wistuba clone 3)

Anyone with experience growing them in please help me out on these...
1. List them in terms of difficulty to grow in outdoor lowland conditions especially during summer months where the temperature soar. Any particular species that is very fussy and any that is easy.
2. Media. They came in perlite/sphagnum mix. I want to repot them in a looser mix of peat/cocochip/perlite when they are acclimatised to sunlight.
3. Pots. Can those plastic net pots be used to provide more air ventilation to the media?
4. Humidity. Is 60% humidity during the day low or alright? Should there be higher humidity during the temperature drop at night?

Btw, they are very small. About 2"-3" across.

Sorry for so many questions but I am living in the lowest of lowland conditions and I don't want to kill the plants. Thanks!
 
N. burbidgeae is the only one i know of to be fussy. it will go long periods with absoltly no growth!
good luck
alex
 
uh well....

Net pots may help keep the roots cooler with some evaporation from the potting mix all around the pot.

I don't think the N. veitchii or N. faizaliana will mind the temperatures tooo much. N. burbidgeae will possibly tolerate it. The others... particularly the N. macrophylla.. ugh.

Are you going to be able to cool them down at night at all???
I wouldn't worry about humidity 60% is fine.

T
 
Hi Tony, all of them are showing signs of growth. Although VERY VERY slow but I can see it byt staring very hard.
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The plants go into a wine cooler at night. They are in boxes so the humidity is kept at 70-90%. Temperature is about 60s.

In fact, I just noticed that the N. macrophylla comes with a basal. Yup, I get the general consensus that it will be one of the tougher ones including N. hamata. I will grow them as large as I can in the wine cooler...the wine cooler is just a 2.5'x1.5'. I am thinking that when the plants reach a good size of 4-5", I'll put them out during the coming December when the weather's cooler...in the 70s.
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Well if you are cooling them artificially at night down to the low 60s then they should do pretty well. With good humidity, air flow, and night time cooling they won't mind day temps into the mid to upper 80's.

Why do highland plants need cool nights?
Highland plants can exhaust themselves over time if night temps are too warm.. During the night plants continue to use stored carbohydrate, produced during the day, to grow and maintain cell functions. Cooler temperatures reduce cell activity! If highland plants are kept too warm they burn more energy than they have in reserve and day after day of this will basically cause the plant to starve. If it is only a minor problem the plant simply will not get as large as fast as it could but will still continue to gain some size over time. Or in a more serious situation it will grow but maintain it's size and never get much larger. In really bad situations the plant will decrease in size with each new leaf and eventually will just fade away! You can counter this somewhat by ensuring the plant is able to store as much food as possible during the daylight hours. IE proper humidity, moisture, light levels, control excessive heat as best as you can and most importantly make sure the plant is well nurished.

The N. faizaliana and perhaps the N. veitchii I might not even bother with the wine cooler at night.

Tony
 
Thanks, Tony. I already feel two rocks off my back. Keeping them alive is a problem in Singapore, let alone them thriving. I joke with the CPers here that if any of these plants can do well, they should be considered as a cultivar! Named N. hamata "Thrives in Singapore".
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speaking of the Singapore thing...why is it that even D. capensis (the weed!) refuses to grow in places like singapore? its always bugged me.
alex
 
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