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Any Doctors In The House?

  • #21
I don't think that you can compare rainwater which sits for weeks in a tank to rainwater in the wild which is given to the plants in its purest form. Sitting in a tank for a long while it starts going rotten. Besides the heavier EC-value bad bacterias are also getting alive. I checked the EC-values several times and always the EC-value went up dramatically after a while.

Yeah, I've noticed that it starts to smell a bit off, but I've never noticed any detrimental affects on my plants other than increased alage growth, but that onlys seems to be a real problem when I use an LFS topdressing.
 
  • #22
Yeah, I've noticed that it starts to smell a bit off, but I've never noticed any detrimental affects on my plants other than increased alage growth, but that onlys seems to be a real problem when I use an LFS topdressing.

That's quite strange. Alive sphagnum is algae resistent. Or what you mean if you are talking of LFS?
 
  • #23
That's quite strange. Alive sphagnum is algae resistent. Or what you mean if you are talking of LFS?

I mean dead dried LFS....just rehydrated and used as a top dressing.
 
  • #25
helps retain mositure, keeps the top of the media from drying out too much in the sun..at least that's how i use it
 
  • #26
Yes ok .... but for this I use alive sphagnum ... also as indicator that my used water is ok because living sphagnum will die if the water is bad. A good moment before the nep will die
 
  • #27
good point, but unfotrunately i have yet to find a source for good live sphagnum, or perhaps it's me.
back to a question i had posed earlier on this thread, can you use physan on neps?
 
  • #28
physan on neps?

Many members have used physan on Neps if memory serves me correct but it is no longer in production (for some reason). Other applicable substances that work quite well are neem oil, consan 20 (fungicide (not pesticide) not to be used on pings on dews) but I do not personally suspect any pests. Closer pictures of the foliage would help!
 
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  • #29
i was just curious, i have no problem obtaining physan 20. i keep a spray bottle of it handy for any signs of bacterial rot on an orchid or fungus on a growing veggie seedling (started under lights)
 
  • #30
Thank you friends!

I think I'm going to have to agree with the temperature drop theory - there is no cobwebbing, mite damage (underside of said leaves is actually still a shade of green, hasn't been sucked dry) and I have yet to fertilize (scares me to death - still can't wrap my mind around the plants being so touchy about filtered water, so bugs are the only fertilizer they get).

For reference, the plants get day time temps of 76ish with about a 10 degree drop at night - mid 60's. I hoped that would be enough... however it does not appear that they agree.

Appreciate the advice - going to post the lot for trade "as is" in hopes that someone with better conditions can rescue them. They were fairly expensive plants.

Anyone want 2 N. lowii and a N. tangalensis that are obviously stressed out?

I'll post a trade post here in the next day or two and try to find them new homes. Guess I should stick with lowlands/hybrids.

Thanks everybody who contributed!
 
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