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Berbidgea, jacquelineae, and jamban

JB_OrchidGuy

Cardiac Nurse
How hard are these guys to grow? How tolerant are they of temps over 90? How tolerant are they of warmer nights?
 
Thez you're full of useful links!
 
I imagine they grow like glabrata???

My glabrata did fine with temps into the 80s and occasionally the 90s as long as it dropped down
to around 60 at night.
 
jamban is probably the easiest out of the bunch---but much more expensive.
jacq didnt pitcher for me the first 6 months of me having it, very finicky with temp/humidity fluctuations (i had a fan burn out, needed to wait for 5 days to get a new one, developing pitchers aborted within 2 days of not having the fan)
burbidgeae does not keep more than 2 pitchers at a time and is a slow grower...

jamban is more of a cool intermediate while the other two are solid highlanders...
imho, if you dont like long term projects and babying, than jacq and burbidgeae are probably not for you...
 
Yup, yup.. I printed those off and highlighted the plants I have... and kinda just ignore the temp ranges for the most part because I think my temperatures mostly coincide with most cool intermediate -> ultra highland plant ranges.

Jamban definitely likes it warmer; jacq and burbie might not appreciate 85+ for too long. IF you do bring them up to 85+ for a while, definitely *absolutely* make sure they get a temp drop down to 65-70 at night. A lot of cool intermediate/warm highlanders like jamban, platychila, vogelli, etc. will not pitcher if you don't get them up to at least 70 during the day, so be mindful of that.

--edit

Oh, and should you decide to get flava the same for it as jacquelinae, though it pitchers more readily. N.tenuis is even more a prolific pitcherer, but the cost is astronomical still :( If you want a spotted pitcher that likes it a little warmer, maybe try N.petiolata.. it seems to do well through warm weather. Or N.stenophylla.. but it definitely likes it warmer like jamban.
 
burb for me is a weed growing by leaps and bounds with each leaf bigger than the last.....not the quickest grower but far from the slowest.....my jac in the same conditions, next to the burb, is not doing much of anything after 2 years....where its at is prolly 85 days, 55-65 nights depending what its like outside as that dictates whether the window nearest them is open......humidity around 80%

i dont grow jamban
 
JB,

Temps 85 plus are probably going to be problematic for these species.

N. burbidgeae is tough to grow as it is larger and slows down significantly. This species may be the most tolerant of warm conditions out of the three mentioned. I cant speak much about the upper warmth tolerance of these species cause I have not tried to push the envelope; but I am growing all three in the same conditions 68-75 ish days and 48-55 nights at 70% plus humidity with close to 100% humidity at night 365 days a year. All pitcher and grow reasonable fast. I have jamban seedlings growing in warmer conditions but will soon move to above mentioned conditions.

If you have any specific questions let me know.
 
  • #10
burbidgeae grows quickly for me with 77F days and 65F nights.....it hates temps below 60F in my expereience, and temps over 85F caused it stress.

N.jacq is a fickle mistress, it likes temps in the mid 70's during the day, and mid 50's at night, however, it will still grow (although slowly) with night temps of 65F and day temps of 77F. Temps over 80F make it VERY VERY angry.

Can't comment on jamban, as I don't have one yet.
 
  • #11
Thanks guys for the info. I was just looking through pics and thought they would be nice to own one day. I guess these will have to wait toll I get a cool growing setup. Here in SC I can't give the temp drop. Inside I can keep the max temp 75-73 but no drop on temp. Not yet. I have plans for a cool growing vivarium.

Thanks again for the info. I like to ask growers who grow the plants cause I grow vent outside here and it tolerates the temps fine. Just curious if these did too.
 
  • #12
I have all three and they're all growing steadily for me in highland conditions. This time of the year high temps can range from mid-70's to low 90's. Night time temps range from low 50's to mid-60's. I don't think any of these will appreciate warm night. You'd probably want to get down into the 60's...at least.
 
  • #13
Oh, actually maybe ask Crissytal? I think she's in NC and even keeps Heliamphora, so she must know how to do it right..
 
  • #14
Well I know what "should" be done. Problem is ATM I keep my plants outside. No controlled growing area ATM. I was just trying to judge if they would survive till ideal conditions were to become reality or perish waiting. Some highlanders like sang, vent, even 'jungle bells' with sib in it do ok for me when I water correctly. I was even doing well with red dragon till I dried it out. Once I get funds and my other pressing projects completed, maybe I can build my cool growing terrarium and then order or trade for these guys. Just have to have wifey approve the appearance of terrarium in the house lol. Has to look good. And got to keep momma happy.
 
  • #15
Well, the following might be considered blasphemous in some circles, but... I can at least speak on the part of N. Burbidgeae, if you can keep it somewhere where the temps float in the mid/low 70's, you shouldn't have a problem. I honestly don't think the whole "night time temperature drop" is all it's cracked up to be. The temp in your house naturally drops at night anyways when the sun goes down.

For example... ever drive in your car on a freezing day in the middle of winter, but the sun is out and you're burning up in your car without having the heater on? Just being in the sun/under light will create heat. Therefore, turning your growlights off/the sun no longer shining through your window naturally makes the temperature drop, regardless of what your thermostat is reading. Why go through all the hassle to trying an manually drop the temp, when it happens naturally throughout the day, even in a climate controlled environment. I don't know if I would keep this plant outside where you live though, I think it would definitely overheat.

---------- Post added at 04:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:42 PM ----------

Oh, and I see no need for you to get a terrarium. I've grown mine on a simple growrack for a couple of years, and it is getting larger and developing pitchers regularly.
 
  • #16
Wow. Might try one one day. I don't have room for a grow rack but could find a place for a grow chamber. Wife won't like a set of racks either. But if a nice looking terrarium and might be able to rearrange for it. Got to work it right. Might take a chance one day. Have to see how it plays out. Thankyou for all the info!! Great info.
 
  • #17
JB,

I grow them outside and so I also have little power to control the temperature range. During these days, the daytime temperature for these neps is 80-85F, and the nighttime temperature is 70F. Up to now, these neps continuous to form pitchers for me. I think they are acclimated to these temperature range gradually. However, if you buy neps from some nurseries and start to grow them, I don't suggest you to put them immediately in these temperature ranges. But you know, although you grow neps outside, you still can do something to control the temperature ranges. For example, you can put some ice input bags, and then hang these ice bags in your growing space or put them around the nep pots. This method can reduce the temperature largely.
 
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