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2 Litre Nepenthes Hydroponics

Well, i've been staring at a 2 liter soda bottle, sitting next to my royal truncata (i'm ashamed to say the little baby is my only nep) and, thinking about the fact that my parents said they might let me get a ventricosa, i thought i might be able to make a long-term impromptu (if that's not an oxi-moron) pseudo hydroponics setup suitable for nepenthes.
Here's my plan;
13266658971.png

the NZ sphagnum (New Zealand for those who don't know) wicks water very well, so it will get to the plant, at the top. Can someone Knowledgeable tell me if this will work? I dont want anything dead.
Ive heard that plastic is good for carnivorous plants, but will a 2 liter soda bottle be okay?
I'm pretty new to carnivorous plants; i've been at it for over a year, but all ive got are sad memories of two dead neps, a gifted-away VFT, a light-deprived truncata, and more hopes than are necessary.
(okay, i get it, i'm 13)

---------- Post added at 05:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:24 PM ----------

sorry about the horrible drawing, i am bad with MS paint, don't have a camera, and forgot to move the picture to the left.
 
tbh.. you dont need anything special for robcantleyi or ventricosa, they are both very easy plants. Also, might I say, you have very good grammar for 13 ;)
 
thank you, i'm a bit of a grammar communist (i'm Jewish) and it's been calculated that my intelligence is equal to that of a 19 1/2 year old. It's true.
Back to business, however; i go on trips more often than i like due to having a family, and a good simple hydroponics system could help me greatly. i wanted to know if this kind of a system would be healthy for something like a ventricosa because it might keep the soil too wet, and i also know that some plants need a daily wet/dry cycling to keep the roots healthy. if the NZ sphagnum has some quality that makes it unsuitable for the capillary action required by wick hydroponics, or is simply a bad media for this kind of a setup, than i would like to know.
 
A small water pump might come in use for this to circulate the water from the bottom of a reservoir to the top of the medium.
 
A couple things to consider. Both of the neps will quickly outgrow this setup and will create very delicate plants. Once they become acclimated to this setup, if they are suddenly removed, they may decline very quickly. Basically the same thing as getting a plant fresh out of tissue culture, except the larger plants would have a better chance of survival. Also, consider the fact that you are also making an ideal habitat for mold and fungus to grow. You would be better off longer term, to just buy a cheap 10 gallon aquarium, they cost around 15 bucks, and a set it up with some live sphagnum to keep a constant humidity.
 
Both valid points, except i don't have and cannot acquire a water pump, and the point of this setup is to grow a smaller plant that can't go a week without water so i can take a trip and not constantly fidget over the health of my plant. I ordered a 3-6 inch N. ventricosa form California Carnivores which i want to raise to about 7/8 inches before i transplant to a nice orchid pot that my Mom had. Also, the algae problem can be averted by covering the bottom of the outside with black duct tape, making it difficult to obtain sunlight
 
I don't understand why you can't purchase a cheap $10 pump & do a simple set-up auto-water system....
but then I don't understand why you say you are 13 here & your profile claims you are 23!

Ah, the mysteries of it all!
???
 
it's not the cost of the pump, it's the buying it itself, and i might have made a typo, 1988 and 1998 look similar to me. I could just harvest a small pump from something, but i don't think anyone would like that. besides, what would a pump acomplish over a wick system?
 
besides, what would a pump acomplish over a wick system?

A wick system is a passive one, and is thereby much slower than one provided by a water pump. If the surface air is humid, the wicking capillary action will be even slower, making a nice soggy environment for fungus. If too dry, you'll have an unhappy plant with wet roots and dry leaves.

A water pump, however, will have a constant flow of oxygenated water over the media and the roots, making it harder for the fungus to take hold, and providing more uniformly moist media! I know which I'd rather have if i were a plant. (Soggy oatmeal bath, or nice refreshing shower?)


Hope this helps you understand,
CJ
 
  • #10
Well, that clears things up; but yet, i still have no pump, so how can i ensure a uniformly moist soil over a week-or-so break without a pump, or any kind of costly or not-easily obtainable doohickey? the N. ventricosa will come in a few days, and i have a week-long trip in February. I want the plant to acclimate to this system, iif at all. If this kind of a thing can't work without pumps, can a 3-inch wide vent survive a week without water without serious damage?
 
  • #11
You can find cheap water pumps at any given aquarium or pet shop. Aquaclears would be the cheapest option, probably the most compact, too.
 
  • #12
I build a lot of small water features, I like to use the Zoo-Med Micro pumps.
They are very compact, yet powerful enough to lift water a couple of feet.
The best part is....they can run dry with no overheating issues.
 
  • #13
I believe your over complicating the situation. I water my plants weekly on my window sill. It isn't a big deal, as long as they don't go dry. Just soak it before going and if your overly concerned, save yourself work, cut the soda bottle in half and put a dome over your plant to hold in humidity til you get back. A week is not an eternity.
 
  • #14
Look thru my recent post about "RainMakers" & automatic watering systems.:
http://terraforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129252

If you look in the beginning of my post, you will find a very simple & cheap automatic wayering system using a bucket & a wide garden type plastic pot.
Add a few holes in the pot, some plastic tubing (again, add holes with a hot nail or awl) and some copper wire to hold it all in place, and its done.
You can use whatever containers that suit your choice, and a small $10-$15 pump (anywhere from 50 to 200 gal per hour is all you need, along with a cheap light timer to make it run a few times a day for a minute or two, and that is alll it takes.

If you can cover the plant with plastic somewhat, keeping in the humidity may also help to reduce water loss. But be careful to avoid stagnant conditions.

If you want something to make watering & daily care a thing of the past, this is the way to go! It is a more natural & beneficial way to water, and won't lead to rot from plants sitting in water. The "wicking" doesn't allow for wet/dry fluxuations, and so isn't as beneficial, except for helping to grow the bad, disgusting things! :ohno:

Do a few searches on TF to find more info on the subject. Wealth of info here!
Good luck.
:water:

PS: And I do also agree with the previous post... a week here & there is not a long time. If your plants are in an enclosed place to conserve on humidity, you should not have any problem going a week or more between waterings.
Consider that option first before thinking you need something more involved/complex! Find out first by experimenting, before just assuming you need something like an auto-water system. Indeed, I certainly agree!
 
  • #15
Mr Acurite: PM me and I can donate a small water pump I parted from a small table fountain. I'd just ask that you cover shipping.
 
  • #16
Look. It's not that i don't have the funds or will to do this; i just can't get the supplies. Can someone tell me how to do this without using pumps or computers or whatever, that would be great. If it comes down to it; i will get that stuff, i just want a simple way to do this. I don't have tubing, or air stones, or anything.
 
  • #17
What if you did a simple drip-system using gravity? If you take a large bottle, prick a small hope in the cap and invert it with water inside. A slight drip should help, as long as you allow the water to flow through and not sit water logged.

I would set it up sooner rather than later, so you have time to tweek it. The only problem I could foresee with it is that, as intelligent as you have shown us to be, you don't have a whole lot of experience growing these plants, and can't "feel" the proper moisture level off hand. BUT! I hope my idea helps you figure out a solution, and I wish you all the luck with it!

-Cj
 
  • #18
thank you so much for the advice, I have been testing wetness for about 11 months (turns out my truncata is actually robcantleyi) and my rob isn't dead yet, so i think i'm okay. The only question left is; do i put a wick in the cap? or just poke a very tiny hole? thank you so much for your time and experiance.
 
  • #20
To be honest, i'm not sure i do, and i don't have the tools to make a REALLY tiny hole, although i could if i wanted to, it would be difficult. I'll try it though, see what happens.
 
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