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Thread: New Nepenthes Dying

  1. #9
    Vidyut's Avatar
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    Looks like there is plenty of water. I suspect you just watered it, so I don't think this is a big deal. But the plant isn't looking good. Next few weeks will be critical. I'd suggest checking the leaves carefully for any critters or fungus that shouldn't be there and doing a "just in case" neem spray before putting it in a bag and leaving it strictly alone (no moving, no nothing) for a while. Good light will be excellent, but NOT direct sunlight, since it will be in a bag. Soaking with seaweed fertilizer or that superthrive thing people talk about could help.

    Only other thing I can think of is a fungicide soak for the pot. Also "just in case", but if fungus at the root is the cause of the problem, it may already be too late. Don't use trichoderma - it works better as a preventative. Use a systemic fungicide if you can, or regular contact whatever on hand or even a neem oil soak will do.

    Once you've set it up comfortably, DON'T MOVE IT unless it either visibly recovers or visibly dies. It won't need more water in the bag. Don't do anything, just leave it alone, so it isn't constantly spending energy on organizing itself to new orientations. No matter how long it takes. I can't stress this enough. This can really make the difference between if it lives or dies and I suspect this is the secret behind plants that thrive on neglect.

    If there is a way to give it better humidity than putting it in a bag, it will be better - misters, etc, humidity AND fresh air is better than humidity alone (this is a lucky time in our area - torrential monsoon, the world is our humidity dome), but bag is better than open air if not.
    Last edited by Vidyut; 07-07-2019 at 02:01 AM. Reason: (edited original post to add detail)
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    Vidyut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGuru View Post
    just based off the picture and without any further information I notice there is a LOT of standing water on the leaves. If you get water on the crown (where new growth comes from) you can get that is known as crown rot. You don't want standing water on top of the plant. Also, you need to not water from the top (watering on top of the soil) but instead have the plant in a tray of some type and fill the tray. Just add water to the tray when it gets empty and fill it a couple of inches or so. The LFM will absorb and pull the water up to the roots.
    For me, top watering works better than bottom for nepenthes. Standing in water can get roots too wet - particularly when using sphagnum and cause/worsen root rot - which can also cause wilting leaves. It seems counterintuitive, but the drier the leaves look, the more important it becomes to make sure the soil is well drained and not soggy at all. The leaves are dry because for whatever reason, the water at the roots isn't reaching them. Adding more water to the roots won't fix that. As long as the media isn't dry, the roots have water and the problem is elsewhere.

    Top watering and letting the water drain away and not watering again till most of the water is used up can let the roots breathe better.
    Last edited by Vidyut; 07-09-2019 at 01:18 AM.
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  3. #11
    Vidyut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGuru View Post
    The plants definitely do all of that.... in nature. Of course, the conditions and media we use to grow them are not the same. When you water from the top you tend get fungus, mold, crown rot, etc, etc. I'm not saying it can't be controlled, but most new growers don't have the experience or knowledge for that. Therefore, it was much easier to recommend what I did. Sorry if that bothered you *shrug*
    Probably a location thing, but I've never had rot issues because of top watering. Where I live, it is warm (hot) and breezy so I guess the foliage dries off pretty fast and the plants appreciate the shower. They LOVE the monsoon - even potted plants! Though they aren't directly under rain, but plenty blows in and leaves can be wet for as long as it rains. They love all that.

    I get rot issues when a pot isn't draining well enough or the plant has too few roots and is potted in a lot of sphagnum which gets soggy. Even with that, plants in heavy, soggy sphagnum that get water running through do better than ponts in heavy soggy stagnant sphagnum.
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    Thank you so much for the quick replies guys! I just received the plant about a week ago so donít believe itís a pest or infestation, unless it came like that from the nursery. Itís under a zip lock bag now and Iíll leave it alone with fingers crossed. Thank you again guys 🙏

  5. #13
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    Misting the plant doesn't actually do anything for maintaining humidity, and can temperature-shock the plant as well as, depending on lighting and location, cause burning or fungal infection on the leaves. Bagging and acclimating is definitely a far better option.
    Also, you purchased a cross between a highland and ultra-highland plant, meaning even if the hybrid is more tolerant it's going to want cool night temperatures (dropping BELOW 60 F) in order to do well long-term. If the temps don't drop, it will eventually decline. Both sibuyanensis and talangensis are also humidity lovers, so if you can't build a location where the humidity remains above 60-70% at least at all times, it may pitcher only rarely.
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    I've had this happen before with one of my plants and when I tried everything to revive it and nothing seemed out of sorts, I dug in deeper and found that it had little to no roots. In this instance it is crucial to keep the spahgnum moist but not to much so the roots don't suffocate and rot. Extra humidity is also a good thing.

  7. #15
    Vidyut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hcarlton View Post
    Misting the plant doesn't actually do anything for maintaining humidity, and can temperature-shock the plant as well as, depending on lighting and location, cause burning or fungal infection on the leaves. Bagging and acclimating is definitely a far better option.
    Also, you purchased a cross between a highland and ultra-highland plant, meaning even if the hybrid is more tolerant it's going to want cool night temperatures (dropping BELOW 60 F) in order to do well long-term. If the temps don't drop, it will eventually decline. Both sibuyanensis and talangensis are also humidity lovers, so if you can't build a location where the humidity remains above 60-70% at least at all times, it may pitcher only rarely.
    I suppose this may be a location related thing. For me, growing anything but lowlanders without misters is not good in summers in particular, but even otherwise with pitchering, etc. This is a bright, hot balcony. Before I installed the misters, I could have as much as half my plants die of heat stress. And not just intermediates and highlanders. Even a rafflesiana can cook with direct sunlight for 7 hours on a concrete balcony with temperatures 35C+ daily for months. Now summer deaths are down to literally less than 10% of my plants, mostly intermediates/highlanders that haven't acclimatized well before summer hits.
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  8. #16
    hcarlton's Avatar
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    I read in your other post on the hamata thread you have a misting setup system that maintains a regular, fairly heavy schedule, which is much like creating a localized hyper humid environment as seen in climate-controlled greenhouses (just on a slightly more variable level due to open access); that is very different from the "misting" most people are going to give, which is a spritz from something like a spray bottle whenever they might walk by. It's not location, it's the setup. Additionally, something like your system is covering a much larger area, reaching multiple plants, and so maintaining a true local climate, not just a sudden spray in one small spot that will evaporate rapidly and do little in the long run.
    Everything has a reason, whether big or small. Never underestimate the power of what is or is not.
    There is far more to everything than meets the eye.
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