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I realized I have only been showing highland plants lately so heres some pics I took of lowlanders while watering today.

Unknown Maxima hybrid #2 "Yellow" this pitcher colored up really nice, it's at a bad angle it's about 7" long
maxima2p903.jpg


Here's a pitcher from a plant I got from Nep G. that was labeled: N. Isama Kusakobe via Joe Mazrime x Efflugent Koto x #1 mirabilis x thorellii 1982. This is about 4" high.
mirabilisxthorelii.jpg


Nepenthes Morganiana pitcher about 4" high. This has much pitcher traits of N. rafflesiana (see next)
morganianap903.jpg


This is a 2 1/2 - 3" pitcher from N. rafflesiana "Giant" from Borneo Exotics. It has a good deal of similarity to N. x Morganiana pitchers except for the toothier all green/yellow peristome and a hairy hamata type lid hairs
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Here's the whole N. rafflesiana "giant". This clone has a wonderful habit of the leaves turning a dark red/maroon color in bright light, they start out pink and turn dark red, never changing to green!
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rafflesiana903.jpg


This is a 6" upper pitcher of N. Petra Giant hybrid (N. ventricosa "Giant" x talangensis x carunculata - I found the tag finally). Despite it's grandiose name it doesn't make that "giant" of a pitcher, nor is it very colorful (even directly under a 400W metal halide). It basically resembles a larger less colorful form of N. Ventrata (see next)
petragiantupperpit2903.jpg


N. Ventrata upper pitcher (N. ventricosa x alata) about 4"
ventrata903.jpg


N. Trichocarpa (N. ampullaria x gracilis) about 3" high, (upper pitcher?) It's growing dangling from a 2ft stalk
trichocarpa9-03.jpg


N. truncata, Finally a nice 10" pitcher! This bugger grows slow in bright light, slow in low light, slow  slow slow!
truncata903.jpg


N. northiana the October pitcher will be about 5" high when it opens fully.
northianabud903.jpg


Here's the peristome of the N. veitchii x truncata hybrid. Pretty slow growing and ugly fellow, weird yellow orange twisted pitchers strange peristome and the whole plant is covered in short hairs including the undersurface of the pitcher lid.
truncxveitchperi.jpg


I hope you liked em!
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wow
very beautiful photos as always
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I really like the N. rafflesiana "giant".

-Jeremiah-
 
Nice pics, nice plants!! Great job!!
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I really need some tips on lowland cultivation!
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Hey Swords, that N. rafflesiana "giant" looks just like the one i got this week (only a bit bigger;) )! I was impressed by the red coloration, too. You mention it looks a lot like another species. Do you think this is actually a hybrid, then?

Nice photos - nice plants!
 
No D, I'm not saying the raff. "Giant" is a hybrid, only that the red spotting and pitcher shape of this raff clone looks very similar to the "N. Coccinea" group hybrid "N. Morganiana". Shown above it. I was just showing similarities between these guys and the ventrata/petra giant...

This raff is a pretty fast grower producing about 3-4 pitchers so far since I got it in July/August. I hope it will actually be a "giant" pitchered one! Like the one in the 1970s looking photo on the Borneo Exotics page with the scientist looking guy holding up the enormous pitcher which is almost as big as his whole torso! Anyone else have the BE-99 clone in mature size? Is it really a "giant"?

Nep G, more heat and light! Luckily more light = more heat!
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Just keep the humidity high.
When I use fluorescent tubes I use four 40 watt tubes per 12" of tank width so a 4 ft l x 3 ft w x 3 ft h chamber would use 12 fluorescent tubes. 6 dual fluorescent shop light stips onsale @ $5.99 each is only about $40 total not including tubes @ $1.99 a pair is $12 (this gives 480 w plus plenty of radiant heat to warm the tank up) add a power strip and timer for another $10-$20. Build it with some solid wall fiberglass $19 for a 4 x 8 sheet if you want the very thickest heavy duty stuff. it will retain far more heat (or cold) then the wood frame and plastic sheeting will. Just pull the sheeting off and nail the fibergalss on. To retain the heat you can wrap the outside with some of the foam core insulation they sell in big 4 ft x 8 ft sheets for about $4 a sheet and use a big sheet of reflective mylar (or kitchen tinfoil) for the front glass and this total covering will give you even more temperature retention via insulation.
This is how I can have a highland chamber with an inner air temp of 45-50*F in my bedroom in the middle of winter and be toasty warm of 75-80*f anywhere in the rest of the room! It works the other way around for retaining heat in the lowland chambers too so if you got a cold area...
 
Hi Swords,
Nice pics. The N. Morganiana is not up to speed yet. Once the plant gets some size and maturity, the pitchers start to look less like N. coccinea. It takes on a much rounder shape, and the pitcher base color is nearly cream with rusty spots.
Also, from what I understand, the raff gigantea will get very large.
The yellow maxima hybrid reminds me very much of an old English hybrid called 'Ted Payne', which I think is in the Dyeriana group. I've seen 'Ted Payne' pitchers 14 inches long! I'm not saying that's what you have, but it does have similarities.

Trent
 
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (swords @ Sep. 30 2003,08<!--emo&
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)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">This raff is a pretty fast grower producing about 3-4 pitchers so far since I got it in July/August. I hope it will actually be a "giant" pitchered one! Like the one in the 1970s looking photo on the Borneo Exotics page with the scientist looking guy holding up the enormous pitcher which is almost as big as his whole torso! Anyone else have the BE-99 clone in mature size? Is it really a "giant"?[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
I have this plant also, got it in July too. Unfortunatly it lost its "reddish" colored leaves. But they are now a very deep green. It has easlily put out about six pitchers since i got it, each one bigger than the last. It just put out a 9" leaf and the last pitcher is about 4". It has already grown out of the ten gallon that I had it in. I now have it in a 75 gallon tank. The new pitcher looks like its going to be a monster. This plant honeslty grows over night. It has grown twice as fast as my bical (which is growing pretty fast itself).
I think I need to put more light to my tank, the pitchers get some red coloring, but nothing like yours.

there is a pic. Its in a huge format, bmp, or jpg, i have no clue. But its a huge file so if your computer is slow dont click on it. If someone knows how to resize it, and wants to, please feel free. I am somthing of a computer dummy. also, i have more pics of this plant if you want to see them.pic
and another pic
 
I have the BE-99 in 'pipsqueak' size...
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I can't wait. I have more space than I need right now. It is making its first pitcher that I know of. The leaves are a nice red. That changes?
 
  • #10
Beagle, The color hasn't stopped with mine, each new leaf is kind of pink turning to red/brown when fully opened and staying that way. As long as your light levels are high the color should hold, if the color fades add more light (or change your bulbs for new ones) it should come back.
 
  • #11
If that pic of "the science guy" is the one I'm thinking of, that's actually Rob Cantley himself, lol.
 
  • #12
I noticed a similar phenomenon with my Miranda / N. x mixta when I got them a few months ago. The leaves reddened, until they cooked and died. I got very precise about placing the plants and worked on the shade situation. Plus, of course, it's not around June 21st any more (high sun). Now all the leaves are coming out with a waxy reddish look, but not getting the occasional fry job.

All the small neps I bought recently responded well, immediately, to more light. The little BE-99 had four spotty leaves with no pitchers. About three weeks later, it has a pitcher on the way and a new leaf that looks promising. Those leaves have that reddish waxy look.

We have that cold front stalled just north of here, so we are still in permanent filtered sunlight, moderate temps (80-70ish) high humidity (read, rain and lots of it). People who don't call themselves "nep farmers" when they check the weather in the morning might be getting cabin fever, OTOH.

Three weeks ago, I could have placed lowlanders on the roof and forgotten about them. Today, they would be thriving with a couple minor leaf burns, max.
 
  • #13
We've got a bunch of BE-99, and they all have the copper colored leaves that almost look like plastic. The pitchers are nearly solid red with a white peristome; you can tell they're raffs but still look very juvenile. The spotting on the older leaves seems to be a rafflesiana trait, and I'm considering flushing the pots with a good systemic fungicide like Clearies to see if it cures the problem. Anyone out there try this for raff spotting?

Also, Beagle, you'll find that once we (Florida Nep Growers) have twenty degree plus day-night temperature differences, the Miranda leaves will take on a coppery red coloration. New growths will be stout and have a similar color, and species like thorelii and red albomarginata will have more intense red coloration.

Trent

Trent
 
  • #14
Trent,

Does it depend on your spots?  I've seen some red spots that don't appear to be that bad (Miranda, coccinea).  More like, eh, freckles?  Dry brown spots are burns from the sun, don't like those.  I've seen black spots after shipping.  I clipped the pitchers and leaves slowly back.  The new growth looks good.  Beat up leaves and pitchers can get weird yellow and brown spotting depending on the level of abuse.

All the nep spotting I've had -- so far, fingers crossed -- has been cured with more direct sunlight.  

Speaking of Florida nep growers, are you feeling this rainforest we've been living in in Cent. FL?  We are about to, again, have frogs in our back yard -- mushy swamp -- if present trends continue.  That happened in August also.

Red albomarginata? Funny you mention that, Trent, I want to be growing that plant. I like the looks of it.
 
  • #15
We have a big rainwater collection tank and its filled to the brim! It was bone dry a little over a week ago. Very wet!
We've had freckling caused by bright light, and water sitting on the leaves, but raffs get this weird rust spots every now and then. I've even seen it in pictures of the plants in the wild!

Trent
 
  • #16
I should have said that I have some rusty looking spotting that seems to have deformed one leaf on a vetchii "typical." I have not noticed that kind of spotting on a raff, yet.

The vetchii obviously likes more light. One day I accidentally left the small, not hardened, vetchii out on the table on the back porch. That provides good VFT or sarracenia light. The vetchii did fine for one whole afternoon. An interesting mistake, because now I give it a lot more light and it seems to like it.
 
  • #17
I spoke to soon. There is some on a BE-94. Foul rust spotting.
 
  • #18
It will also appear on some raff hybrids. We have a rafflesiana x veitchii that will get the same spotting on older leaves. It never spreads or harms the leaf. It's just there. I've avoided fungicides on the Neps. I don't like unsightly white water marks on their leaves and pitchers, but may resort to a systemic fungicide (Clearies 3336) drench through the potting mix, hoping to innoculate the plants through the roots.
Beagle, its supposed to cool down tonight. We should see a low of about 70 F in Palm Beach County. I guess you folks up in central Fl. will hit the mid 60's. The Neps are gonna love it!
Trent
 
  • #19
It's 82 F and humid, at 4:15. I can feel that chill in the air.
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Actually, last night, the "cold" front blew thru and it got chilly, well, for Florida. Finally, today I saw bright sun. It burned my retinas. I went screaming for cover. Just kidding. Looks like it is going to be a good Fall for lowland neps. Rainy and mild, can't beat it.

I'm going to have total cover for my patio. Any bug will have to slip through a curtain of pitchers to get at me. The red amps have already started catching those queen fire ants that fly around. Pretty, and useful.
 
  • #20
nice pics! hey swords how do you get your pitcher to be so big? fertilize?
 
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