TerraForums Venus Flytrap, Nepenthes, Drosera and more talk
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We sprayed it several times per year with Table Grapes. Magnisium is one of the hardest elements for the plant to take up. It is associated with Nitrogen, the chlorophyll molecule being made with 4 nitrogen atoms surrounding 1 magnisium atom. The symptoms of deficiancy are therefore similar, the new growth being green and the old growth yellow.
Joseph,
I just did a search for "micronutrients for aquatic plants" and came up with the following page with products"
www.azgardens.com/newfert.htm
It looks like it has whay you're asking about. Let me know if I punched in the wrong url and I'll find it again.
Regards,
Joe
I just did a search for "micronutrients for aquatic plants" and came up with the following page with products"
www.azgardens.com/newfert.htm
It looks like it has whay you're asking about. Let me know if I punched in the wrong url and I'll find it again.
Regards,
Joe
Thanks Griffin,
Does anyone recognize anything in this ad that could be harmful to Neps?
Flourish Tabs™ are growth stimulating tablets for plant roots. They contain essential trace elements, amino acids, and vitamins. They are rich in iron, manganese, magnesium, calcium, potassium, inositol, choline B12, biotin, and other factors that have been determined to be beneficial to aquatic plant roots. They contain no phosphate or nitrate that would promote algae proliferation. Each pack of ten tablets treats a 12 X 30 inch plant bed twice.
Thanks
Joe
Does anyone recognize anything in this ad that could be harmful to Neps?
Flourish Tabs™ are growth stimulating tablets for plant roots. They contain essential trace elements, amino acids, and vitamins. They are rich in iron, manganese, magnesium, calcium, potassium, inositol, choline B12, biotin, and other factors that have been determined to be beneficial to aquatic plant roots. They contain no phosphate or nitrate that would promote algae proliferation. Each pack of ten tablets treats a 12 X 30 inch plant bed twice.
Thanks
Joe
Joe the most well-ballanced micronutrient fertilizer for aquarium plants (and neps) that I've ever used is Yamato Green find at www.yamatogreen.com (surpassing any I've found locally at fish/plant shops such as liquid gold, kent products, seachem flourish, tetra green, etc). Yamato Green only available online from the guy who makes it (an old minister in Nevada).
It's available in normal YG which contains all the nutrients micro and macro except phophate and nitrogen. Now it is also available with low doses of nitrogen in YG-N. I add about 5-10 drops of the regular YG per gallon when I mix up fertilizer (when I add nitrogen I use Urea free orchid fertilizer by Grow More).
It's available in normal YG which contains all the nutrients micro and macro except phophate and nitrogen. Now it is also available with low doses of nitrogen in YG-N. I add about 5-10 drops of the regular YG per gallon when I mix up fertilizer (when I add nitrogen I use Urea free orchid fertilizer by Grow More).
To 1 gallon of R/O water I put 1ml (glass eyedropper full) of YG standard formula.
I also add a 1/4 - 1/2 strength orchid fertilizer for the macro nutrients (nitrogen, phosphate, potassium) and do a bi-weekly or monthly soil flush. If you don't want to use the macro nutrients you can leave the orchid fertilizer out, if you're feeding insects it really isn't necessary to use the macronutrients but I do anyway and see no bad effects from it.
I keep a seperate mister bottle full of this mix for an occasional foliar mist maybe weekly or bi weekly whenever I think of it but I always remember to mist off the plants with pure R/O the next day with another mister that is only used with pure R/O water-just to prevent any possible chance of a nutrient build up on the leaf surfaces.
I've never added fertilizer to the pitchers only crickets and fruitflies (when the plants were tiny). I once added bloodworms to the pitchers and it blackened them so ever since I'm a bit wary of adding anything too "rich" to the pitchers.
I also add a 1/4 - 1/2 strength orchid fertilizer for the macro nutrients (nitrogen, phosphate, potassium) and do a bi-weekly or monthly soil flush. If you don't want to use the macro nutrients you can leave the orchid fertilizer out, if you're feeding insects it really isn't necessary to use the macronutrients but I do anyway and see no bad effects from it.
I keep a seperate mister bottle full of this mix for an occasional foliar mist maybe weekly or bi weekly whenever I think of it but I always remember to mist off the plants with pure R/O the next day with another mister that is only used with pure R/O water-just to prevent any possible chance of a nutrient build up on the leaf surfaces.
I've never added fertilizer to the pitchers only crickets and fruitflies (when the plants were tiny). I once added bloodworms to the pitchers and it blackened them so ever since I'm a bit wary of adding anything too "rich" to the pitchers.
