What's new
TerraForums Venus Flytrap, Nepenthes, Drosera and more talk

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Everyone say your last words to n. rafflesiana

My N. rafflesiana is in still declining condition, even after lowering my daytime temps. My N. albomarginata, reinwardtiana, and even a ventricosa are just fine in the same conditions. I have no other guess but to say that it is just gonna die anyway.

There are some signs of possible life though, it has produced a new pitcher and leaf. It is still looking dismal though.

R.I.P. rafflesiana

smile_h_32.gif
smile_h_32.gif
smile_h_32.gif
smile_h_32.gif
smile_h_32.gif
smile_h_32.gif
smile_h_32.gif
 
Hi TunaSurprise -

Taking a tip from Caroline at Kew Royal Botanic Gardens in London, one thing I am now doing when neps get "iffy" is to carefully remove them from the pot and pot up in 100% pure live LFS (I use a pond or mesh basket). My N. burbidgea x edwardsiana had not pitchered or made new leaves in months. It was on its way out mid December, so I tried this method. Happily - it now has 3 new leaves and 2 new pitchers about to open!

If you don't have a pond basket, with a soldering iron you can carefully melt a skajillion holes in a plastic cup. I have a Darlingtonia growing in one of these goofy cups.

Good luck with it.
 
What temp do you have the N. rafflesiana at?
They are lowlanders and like the heat.
 
The temps may be the problem. Those other three plants can be grown as intermediates quite well/many consider ventricosa a hardy highlander, but still a highlander. I can't check here at work, but I have seen both reinwardtiana and albomarginata listed as intermediate on some people's list.
Any specifics on the raff(location, form)? Would you maybe consider trading for A N. 'Red Leopard'?

Cheers,

Joe
 
The temps used to be over 100F every day. I lowered it to 90F on par.

I am running low on LFS, but i may be able to spare some for my poor guy. The newest leaf doesn't seem to be in as bad a shape as the others are in, so i'll wait a little longer. It does look very dismal though.
 
70 low at the COLDEST part of the year. The thermometer is also at the bottom of the greenhouse, so i think it'll be a little warmer higher up.

Just a note, this plant gets full sun for the entire time that the sun is up every day. Could this cause the burning? In that case, this is an EASY fix.
 
I would definitely put it in a shadier spot and see how it responds to that.

Cheers,

Joe
 
Okay, i know just the place, i'll move it RIGHT NOW.
*bolts out door*
 
  • #10
It very well could be burning. N. rafflesiana is probably the most sensitive lowland plant I have. Very picky about humidity and light levels. It generally needs dappled light and very very good humidity (70-100%)
 
  • #11
It's behind my bical, albomarginata, and reinwardtiana, which are on top of a crate that lets very little light though. The sun comes mostly from a 45 degree angle, so the raff should have PLENTY of shade.
smile.gif
 
  • #12
[b said:
Quote[/b] ]It very well could be burning. N. rafflesiana is probably the most sensitive lowland plant I have. Very picky about humidity and light levels. It generally needs dappled light and very very good humidity (70-100%)

Interesting... I have this experience with my regular raf, which I have to keep in my lowland tank with the bical, but my raf. elongata is incredibly durable. I don't get it. This thing is growing happily in a room where the humidity sometimes drops down to 27%
smile_k_ani_32.gif
smile_k_ani_32.gif
though admitadly I do endevor to keep it over 40%....it has yet to be over 68%. Why the difference between the varieties?
 
Back
Top