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Question of survival

Hello everyone: I am getting a utricularia bisquamata and I want to make sure of its survival. Yes, i have done my research, I have a RO filter, a south window, and places to invade. I am just wondering about how it will invade and also whether it will grow well outside, Stocton CA.

---------- Post added at 01:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:54 PM ----------

revision: Stockton, California Zone 9
 
In my limited experience with Utricularia, I have found that as long as they are constantly wet and above freezing and below say... 90 degrees, they should grow.

It could very well grow outside. I figure if a Utricularia can grown on my window ceil here, then it can probably grow outside anywhere in California.
 
It's an easy plant, having done well in a terrarium, grow rack, and window sill. It should do fine outside. It's as successful as U. subulata. but without the notoriety.
 
I am just wondering about how it will invade
My understanding is that the plant spreads its tiny little seeds quite efficiently. While this trait may be one you enjoy, it is not welcome in my collection (except for the 'Betty's Bay' cultivar).

.... but without the notoriety.
...it's at least a close 2nd :0o:
 
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I see, Is it really that hardy?
If, by 'hardy', you mean cold-tolerant - I have no clue as I've never heard anything about it's ability to survive temperate winters.

If you're referring to it's ability to spread to adjacent pots and become very difficult to eradicate, yes, it has a well-deserved reputation.

I don't need any more 'issues'. My current list includes:

- D. regia that came with aphids that have survived the 1st round of treatment (separate isolation tank until pests are eliminated)
- 2 pots of a nice, small, vigorous U. reniformis that are infected w/ U. subulata that only produces cleistogamous flowers (several inches separation from other plants, daily monitoring for cleistogamous flowers until leaf or root cuttings are established)
- several utric pots that have an ugly filamentous algae that covers the media surface with a nasty 'web' (several inches separation from other plants until leaf or root cuttings are established)(or until alternate methods provide complete eradication).

Some people don't mind these issues (obviously - as they were all received in trades) but for me ....

:headwall:

- - - - now steps off soapbox and switches out of whining mode - - - - :jester:
 
Aloha Ron,

receiving a utricularia infested with another utricularia (subulata, bisqumata, longifolia) really sucks. Some it isn't too hard to get a clean culture going by taking flower stalk cuttings, others that grow slow like reniformis it almost feels like I got a time bomb waiting to happen as i have watched U. subulata spread from one pot to many even if these pots were feet away. Working on my "ship in a bottle" cultivation method to help slow them down.
DSC_00040001_7.jpg
 
i've isolated my orchidioides into glass vases. dont want to risk cross contamination---especially with other utrics that rhyme with "sighdolor"
 
I've kept weedy utrics outside (like bisquamata, livida, subulata) in an unheated greenhouse Oregon... So as long as you keep your utrics above 32ish you should be fine.

I sure hope you got a good clone of bisquamata. You wouldn't want one of those awful non-flowering forms, lol
 
  • #10
receiving a utricularia infested with another utricularia (subulata, bisqumata, longifolia) really sucks.
You mentioned U. longifolia & i remembered that I'm also dealing with a U. longifolia that escaped into the LFS on the bottom of a 10 gal tank. Every time I think I have found all of it, it pops up a few months later. I just noticed it again. I'm afraid that it may have invaded one of my mature N. hamata pots - DOH!

Some it isn't too hard to get a clean culture going by taking flower stalk cuttings...
Thankfully I haven't had any contaminants in my smaller utrics yet. However, to prepare myself, I've taken a few flower stalks and practiced propagation with U. nephrophylla & some others ... can't hurt to be ready.

i've isolated my orchidioides into glass vases. dont want to risk cross contamination---especially with other utrics that rhyme with "sighdolor"
My main pots of section foliosa plants (tricolor, praelonga & longifolia) are now growing on a windowsill away from others. The few remnant tricolor (ahem - were quelchii) pots are sequestered in their own isolation water trays (& monitored closely).

On the Orchidioides note, I recently planted most of my clones into the 4" net pots that Av mentioned he is using. While the plants have, in general, loved the switch - as expected, they are sending roots & leaves out everywhere. Very soon, it will be tough to catch & redirect (or cut) all of the wayward adventurers .... :0o:

S21 - sorry for commandeering your thread. As you can see, it's a lot easier to control invasive species before they escape - rather than after....
 
  • #11
I thought the clones were regular and Betty's bay. What other forms are there?
 
  • #12
Utricularia are invasive indeed, and without attention collections can go very awry. The best method I found for species purity is frequent restarts, and never depend on a single pot.

Plants newly acquired should always go into quarantine....for sure! If there is enough to divide, divide it immediately on its arrival into a good clean mix, don't wait for problems to manifest.

Self seeding species should be grown in isolation and in closed scenarios. I love Mach's ship in a bottle!

Frequently check the bottom of pots for escapees.

Allow the water tray to become dry before adding water.

....and to address the topic:

Utricularia thrive outdoors, but they seem VERY prone to sunburn. I used layers of white garbage bags covering open terraria...beginning with like 3 bags and reducing over a month to none.
 
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