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The time has finally arrived for re-potting a slough of Dionaea -- something I now do annually, just as they emerge from dormancy; and it has certainly encouraged far more vigorous growth and increased size of my B52s and other cultivars over the years. Several of the plants are now in larger 15 cm (6") pots, as deep as they are wide -- and it was surprising how root-bound many of the plants had become just over the course of one season. Also, the widely-held view that Dionaea is very shallow-rooted is incorrect, as the photos below clearly illustrate.

I have read far too often about the strict care of these "very delicate" plants -- often from quite experienced growers, including Barry Rice -- who claim that re-potting Dionaea is just as likely to kill them as allowing them to flower, something that I have never faced. The plants seem to acclimate after only a few days and exhibit visible growth by the end of a week.

While these few plants are currently worse for wear (they were underwater for an hour this morning), they'll look great later this Spring and Summer -- and I have many more to do. In the first photo, the corm was a bit larger than a golf-ball:

Dionaea muscipula cv. "B52"
-- 11 March 2010
B52-2.jpg


BAREROOTB52S.jpg
 
o_O Thats one massive dionaea ball... how did it get so massive?
 
A few growers advocate repotting annually. VFTs are apparently adapted to higher acidic conditions and peat moss gets less acidic as it breaks down. VFTs appear to grow less vigorously as the peat moss ages. Replacing the peat moss restores the acidity and so it seems the vigor of growth.

Note: The 'B52' cultivar is noted for the potential size it can get.
 
I agree with repotting annually. I get much more vigorous growth.
 
I agree with repotting annually. I get much more vigorous growth.


Yeah, I don't quite fathom the "delicacy" attached to these plants. Some growers who are quite comfortable with the annual re-potting of Sarracenia (dividing rhizomes, encouraging flowering, etc.) quake in their boots when it comes to Dionaea -- which are just as tolerant and vigorous as all the others . . .
 
The roots are wimpy but if you handle them with the modicum of care it's not a problem. Otherwise the plants are rather sturdy and not sensitive to root disturbance.
 
Bella,
Once again we can see you really have a knack
and have certainly learned what you are able to do
with the plants, and giving them what they need!

GREAT Growing! :boogie::banana2::boogie:

Paul
 
Bella,
Once again we can see you really have a knack
and have certainly learned what you are able to do
with the plants, and giving them what they need!

GREAT Growing!

Paul

Thank you . . .

But, I have learned a great deal from other growers on this forum and have no intention of taking credit for everything. My successes -- and occasional failures -- and that of others have only served to improve my growing practices a good deal over the years; and a recent case in point, is the use of coffee on Nepenthes, of which I am just beginning to see the merits. That was certainly not my idea and that credit goes, primarily, to Dave Evans and the other growers who have been swearing by it and seeing promising results.

Also, the practice of re-potting Dionaea on an annual basis -- to give them a swift kick in the pantalones -- was due, in part, to the influence of Peter D'Amato and some growers on this and other forums. When I was younger, there was very little practical information on growing -- much less obtaining -- carnivorous plants, and my early failures were . . . legion . . .
 
Here's one of the plants re-potted on 11 March, just sending up its first sets of Spring leaves, and now catching a few things on the sly . . .

Dionaea muscipula cv. "B52"
-- 13 April

B52-6.jpg
 
  • #10
Hey BB - is that outside or in a GH?
 
  • #11
The plants remain outside -- and were literally flooded by the rains over this last weekend. I have also found that you cannot give the plants too much sun . . .
 
  • #12
okay by you cannot give the plants too much sun do u mean, its impossible to give them too much sun or do u mean...dont give them too much sun?

ps. i gotta say u got skills, from the condition it was in in the first pics to now...wow.
 
  • #13
BB that's a gorgeous VFT!
 
  • #14
okay by you cannot give the plants too much sun do u mean, its impossible to give them too much sun or do u mean...dont give them too much sun?

ps. i gotta say u got skills, from the condition it was in in the first pics to now...wow.

BB that's a gorgeous VFT!



Thanks. I am looking forward to Summer; the plants will only get larger and nastier by July . . .

What I meant to say, was that most Dionaea I see in cultivation are light-starved and fragile; no wonder that they are not allowed to flower. These plants are actually tough, survive fires and flooding, and are capable of taking in a great amount of light -- even if the initial exposure manages to burn a few leaves. Gradually expose them to direct sun and you will not be disappointed. If you had ever seen them in the field, you would appreciate just how exposed and harsh the conditions can be in the Carolinas.

I have also been successful growing them under lights, while at college -- so I am not one of those growers reflexively adverse to using fluorescents; but growing them outside -- if at all possible -- solves a great deal of problems, including hardening them to the elements, managing their feeding -- and more importantly, preparing them for their circannual cycle and dormancy. It's just more of a pain in the arse . . .
 
  • #15
oooh okay yea thanks for clearing that up!! =]
 
  • #16
Here are just a couple of those plants, re-potted into gallon containers back in March -- and now taking on a bit of Spring color . . .

Dionaea muscipula cv. "B52"
B52-7.jpg


D. muscipula cv. "Big Mouth"
BIGMOUTH-2.jpg
 
  • #17
I agree with repotting helping growth. I repotted several of mine this spring and they're doing great! They're even sending up flower stalks. .
 
  • #18
A squadron of B52s, getting a "tan" in the Kali-forn-ia sun . . .

Dionaea muscipula cv. "B52"
B52-8.jpg
 
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