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Thread: VFTs

  1. #9
    nepenthesl0ve's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluemax View Post
    You would be better off setting up an area more to a warmer area of the room with sufficient artificial lighting, unless you have triple-paned glass in your window. At 10 below it's gotta be cold on that window sill, as Andrew has suggested. Flytraps do grow well indoors under grow lights and they have been successfully grown without dormancy.
    so you are saying i can bring my VFTs inside and keep them under strong lights and warm conditions rather than induce dormancy? Not trying to highjack the thread but every year at least 3-4 of my VFTs die in dormancy and it is incredibly frustrating. they always seem to be too wet or too dry. have had 3 rot this winter
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  2. #10
    Lotsa blue bluemax's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nepenthesl0ve View Post
    so you are saying i can bring my VFTs inside and keep them under strong lights and warm conditions rather than induce dormancy? Not trying to highjack the thread but every year at least 3-4 of my VFTs die in dormancy and it is incredibly frustrating. they always seem to be too wet or too dry. have had 3 rot this winter
    Yes, they can be grown indefinitely in warm, bright conditions without a dormancy. I believe that John Brittnacher was the first to point this out. Here you can read his write-up along with other tips and info about growing Dionaea: https://www.carnivorousplants.org/grow/guides/Dionaea My problem is I don't have a lot of room indoors for growing flytraps. But I always keep a few to brighten up the winter scene.
    - Mark

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    Vermontscott's Avatar
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    Set up

    Here is my set up for now. The plant is in New Zealand long fiber sphagnum moss that I cut up a bit with scissors. I use RO water from the lab I work in. I know I donít need the aquarium but itís holding the light where I want it for now. Iíll see how the plant is doing after a week or two and move it closer if necessary. The whole thing is just begging for another plant and light setup! When I ordered the bulb, 26 watt, I didnít realize they also came in a 32 watt version. Would that have been a better choice?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails VFTs-d1694a37-9d6a-48b9-9bc3-9a7a43c9d756-jpg   VFTs-3b848918-18bd-445d-8ad6-b26b51123d54-jpg  


  4. #12
    Gardening freak! tommyr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vermontscott View Post
    My original plan was to get two VFTs and try the peat:sand mix vs LFS. Maybe Iíll still do that but itís difficult to get two similar plants and spring for two identical lighting setups. I suppose I could go with a two foot T5 light but Iím trying to keep cost under control.
    I tried growing some of mine in LFSM last year and didn't really see any difference in growth. Some say the roots and plants grow bigger but I didn't see that at all. I switched them back to peat/perlite this year. I prefer peat/perlite mix. It's much easier to clean off the roots too, LFSM is a PITA to remove from VFT roots. More chance of damaging them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nepenthesl0ve View Post
    so you are saying i can bring my VFTs inside and keep them under strong lights and warm conditions rather than induce dormancy? Not trying to highjack the thread but every year at least 3-4 of my VFTs die in dormancy and it is incredibly frustrating. they always seem to be too wet or too dry. have had 3 rot this winter
    Without dormancy THEY WILL grow weak. They DO need dormancy. There is no doubt about it. Growing them indoors is a bad idea IMHO.

  5. #13
    Vermontscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommyr View Post
    I tried growing some of mine in LFSM last year and didn't really see any difference in growth. Some say the roots and plants grow bigger but I didn't see that at all. I switched them back to peat/perlite this year. I prefer peat/perlite mix. It's much easier to clean off the roots too, LFSM is a PITA to remove from VFT roots. More chance of damaging them.

    - - - Updated - - -


    Without dormancy THEY WILL grow weak. They DO need dormancy. There is no doubt about it. Growing them indoors is a bad idea IMHO.
    The information I found said that the LFS allowed young VFTs to mature much faster but there wasn’t much difference with adult plants. There is a guy named Joel who sell B52s and swears by LFS. I got some plants from him last year and the one I kept in LFS did great and the ones I transplanted to a peat perlite mix died. I think I lost those plants during dormancy in my garage this winter ��

    I’m replacing the CFL with a SANSI 15 watt grow light bulb because it should be brighter, use less electricity and allow me to get more than one plant under it. So I will pot up a VFT in a peat silicon dioxide mix so I can compare the two.

    Regarding dormancy John B knows his stuff so I wouldn’t be surprised if he can get them to grow without dormancy. I’m a scientist and experiments need to be done properly and his set up sounds good. A lot of people regurgitate what they read or use what they think is common sense and really don’t have any experience. If he can get them to grow for years with a constant photoperiod and no exposure to natural light I believe him. If they got some natural light that could potentially mess them up as far as dormancy goes.

  6. #14
    Gardening freak! tommyr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vermontscott View Post
    The information I found said that the LFS allowed young VFTs to mature much faster but there wasn’t much difference with adult plants. There is a guy named Joel who sell B52s and swears by LFS. I got some plants from him last year and the one I kept in LFS did great and the ones I transplanted to a peat perlite mix died. I think I lost those plants during dormancy in my garage this winter ��

    I’m replacing the CFL with a SANSI 15 watt grow light bulb because it should be brighter, use less electricity and allow me to get more than one plant under it. So I will pot up a VFT in a peat silicon dioxide mix so I can compare the two.

    Regarding dormancy John B knows his stuff so I wouldn’t be surprised if he can get them to grow without dormancy. I’m a scientist and experiments need to be done properly and his set up sounds good. A lot of people regurgitate what they read or use what they think is common sense and really don’t have any experience. If he can get them to grow for years with a constant photoperiod and no exposure to natural light I believe him. If they got some natural light that could potentially mess them up as far as dormancy goes.
    Well I don't regurgitate and I've been growing them for over 12 years now and doing the fridge dormancy method with no losses. To each his own I guess. Good luck!

  7. #15
    Vermontscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommyr View Post
    Well I don't regurgitate and I've been growing them for over 12 years now and doing the fridge dormancy method with no losses. To each his own I guess. Good luck!
    I didn’t mean for that to sound harsh, I’m very happy you have found a method that works for you. Like a previous poster I lose quite a few plants in my Vermont garage every winter. I was planning on doing a refrigerator dormancy but just didn’t get around to it last season. Do you pull them and put them in LFS just for the dormancy? I have a pretty cold window at work that I’m thinking about trying as well.

    I have a Sarracenia purpurea purpurea that was in LFS and it was a nightmare to repot. It’s in a peat perlite mix now but I think I used too much perlite last season, nearly all my Sarracenias seemed stunted. I don’t think it was the peat because I have a bowl with three Sarracenias, some VFTs and Drosera rotundifolia in the same peat mixed with sand that did phenomenally well.
    Last edited by Vermontscott; 02-23-2020 at 11:30 AM.

  8. #16
    Gardening freak! tommyr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vermontscott View Post
    I didn’t mean for that to sound harsh, I’m very happy you have found a method that works for you. Like a previous poster I lose quite a few plants in my Vermont garage every winter. I was planning on doing a refrigerator dormancy but just didn’t get around to it last season. Do you pull them and put them in LFS just for the dormancy? I have a pretty cold window at work that I’m thinking about trying as well.

    I have a Sarracenia purpurea purpurea that was in LFS and it was a nightmare to repot. It’s in a peat perlite mix now but I think I used too much perlite last season, nearly all my Sarracenias seemed stunted. I don’t think it was the peat because I have a bowl with three Sarracenias, some VFTs and Drosera rotundifolia in the same peat mixed with sand that did phenomenally well.
    No problem. For VFTs, I drain off excess water from the pots, hit them with a sulphur based fungicide and place in zip lock bags and pop them in the fridge for 3 to 3 1/2 months. I occasionally check them (once a month) for fungus and hit with the fungicide if needed. Late winter around February/March I take them out, clean them up and hit them with SULFUR based fungicide again and place in a south and west window and some under florescent and white 'daylight' LED lights until night time temps. regularly stay above freezing then slowly acclimate them to full outdoor Sun. I've been using this method for 12 years with no losses.

    I grow my sarrs in peat/perlite 50/50. I lost a lot of them last year (kept them outside in an unheated storage room) and only the Flavas survived.

    Tom

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