I keep reading that you should transplant VFTs every year or two, does anyone know what the limiting factor is? I have heard soil acidity, nutrient leaching, etc. but a paper on www.bestcarnivorousplants.com mentioned that even among CPs that VFTs are particularly sensitive to nutrients in the soil so could the problem be nutrient accumulations that could be removed by top watering instead of using the tray system? Has anyone tried this? Did it delay the need to transplant? Curious am I, yes.
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transplanting alternitives?
- Thread starter greencrunch
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- soil
nepenthes gracilis
Nepenthes Specialist
Transplanting it is. When a VFT is transplanted into FRESH soil it is invigorated by the new acidity content and grows healthier and larger,ect. Personally if your VFT shows decline change the soil. They usually will only show signs of decline is soil acidity is to low or pests are a problem. But replant if it shows decline AFTER two years. If pests are the problem treat with an appropiate insectide safe foe CP's. Glad to see your new to the forums! WELCOME! Hope this helps. Nep.G.
Hmmm i don't know if this would work but i guess if you planted your vft in an inorganic mix and watered it with water that had been soaked in peat moss you would never have to repot your plant. You see the inorganic mix never breaks down so it won't cause a lack of oxygen to the roots after a few years like peat does and the peat water just acifies the inorganic media. Hey don't do this...it was only a thought. If u want advice on repotting vfts etc go to sarracenia.com's vft FAQ
I was wondering about watering with tannin saturated water to maintain acidity also, but I had not considered soil anoxia. I would think that the acidity in the water would discourage bacterial decomposition of the peat but there would still be oxidative decomposition with resulting soil compacting and anoxia. Hmmm. I wonder if using a mix of fine (peat) and coarse (pumice) particles would allow O2 penatration while allowing the decomposing peat to be flushed through to be replaced by top dressing, I was trying something similar to this with a couple of nepenthes I had but I traded them before I got any results (I feel an experiment coming on), I will have to play with this some and see if it works. Results to follow (in about 4 or 5 years ( if I don't trade them again)). Thanks. P.S. Sarracenia.com FAQ is a great place, anyone who has not read this should do so!
