How do i?....

[trixie7777]

I am really interested in starting my own collection of these types of plants, but when I was reading over the care information I became a little confused on some of it... Hopefully someone out there can help me. I just want to know the best information anyone has to keep there plant from dying. I am looking for information mostly on...

Watering, Light, Tempatures, and Soil....

For example: When you recieve your plant, the peat moss that comes in the pot with the plants... Do you recommened leaving in that pot and that moss. Or do you take it out of that pot into a new one with the same moss, or when/if you have to replace the soil do you transfer the moss and the plant or just the plant into new soil?

Do you recommed leaving the top on until it gets bigger?

How much artificial sunlight should it have and do you keep the top on or off while in the light?

Do you have to place the plant in some type of "dormancy" during the winter if it's inside with heat and light?

Thanks,
Jenny

 

[jhaluska]

There is a FAQ for just about everything at the top.

In short...

Watering, I recommend Distilled water from a store.  Consistent quality, realitively inexpensive and easy.  Tray method of putting water in a trap underneath the plant works the best.

Light, As much sunlight as you can give it, unless you live in 90+ degree weather.

Soil, I wouldn't worry about this unless your starting from a seed or bulb, which I don't recommend for begineers.  The plants don't need a lot of soil and the pots they come in are good for at least a year or two.

If you get the plants from here, they won't come with live peat moss.  I would only take out the peat moss out if you have tiny plants, as I think it helps keep in moisture and its just pretty.

If you have artificial sunlight I'd leave it on unless the plants are getting really hot.

Yes, if your plant is big enough it will need dormancy even if you keep it inside.  The plant is stupid, it doesn't know it is inside.

 

[trixie7777]

Okay, so If I buy a plant from here I can just keep it in what I get it in, just water it and give it sun light? Are they small plant's when you get them? Do you have to feed them asap when they arrive? I was at Meijer last night looking at them and there are about 6 traps on one plant. Do you have to feed each trap of just one? (Weekly) nd if there really small I don't have to put them away for the winter? Where do you recommened I place them when they get big enough (for dormancy).

Sorry about all the questions... Just want to be sure I have everything set before I do this.

Thanks,
Jenny

 

[jhaluska]

You don't have to feed it at all, its a plant first, bug eater second. It can grow very happily with NO bugs at all.

Just water it and give it sun light and it will catch all the bugs it needs. Trying to feed the plants unless you are experienced can actually be harmful. Yes they come small, but they will grow up with proper care within a year.

If they are small, don't worry about dormancy.

 

[trixie7777]

can I keep them in the moss/soil the come in?

 

[vft guy in SJ]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (trixie7777 @ Sep. 15 2003,09:30)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">nd if there really small I don't have to put them away for the winter? Where do you recommened I place them when they get big enough (for dormancy).[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
No, the plant will almost certainly need dormancy this year. The plants PFT sells are a couple years old already and will definately want dormancy. If you live in an area with winters similar to their native habitat, you can simply leave the plants outside and they will take care of themselves.
For more information detailing virtually every aspect of cultivation of VFTs check out the FAQ pages here: FAQ pages
Im sure you will find answers to all your questions there.

Good luck
Steve

 

[Vertigo]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (trixie7777 @ Sep. 15 2003,1:08)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">can I keep them in the moss/soil the come in?[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>

Yes. You can.

The people over at pft pot up their plants nicely, and with care. Usually you won't have to repot any of the plants for at least a year or two. Some of them you won't have to for a while. The plant will usually let you know one way or another.

 

[scottychaos]

Jenny,
where abouts in the world are you located?
unfortunately right now is the *worst* time of year to get new CPs! or to get started in the hobby.

because right now everything is getting ready for dormancy..
and will be going to sleep for 3-5 months..
you would be MUCH better off waiting until Spring and ordering your plants then, because that way they will just be coming OUT of dormancy and you will have all summer for you and the plants to get to know each other!

(that is assuming you live in the northern hemisphere! if you live in the southern hemisphere then right now IS a good time to get started&#33

let us know where you live (just the city or state is fine) and we can help you more with dormancy concerns..
Scot

 

[trixie7777]

I live in Michigan... I wouldn't be starting off with seed's or bulbs. I would be getting a plant all ready for growing up more. It's cold here in the winter and isn't that okay for them if I were to put them in the windowsill with light. It wouldn't be to cold, it should just be right? Or am I really wrong. I only say this because in Dormancy can't you put them in the refridgerator and the windowsill would bascily be the same thing, but with some light.

 

[scottychaos]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (trixie7777 @ Sep. 15 2003,2:29)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I live in Michigan...  I wouldn't be starting off with seed's or bulbs.  I would be getting a plant all ready for growing up more.    It's cold here in the winter and isn't that okay for them if I were to put them in the windowsill with light. It  wouldn't be to cold, it should just be right? Or am I really wrong. I only say this because in Dormancy can't you put them in the refridgerator and the windowsill would bascily be the same thing, but with some light.[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
yeah, that would all be fine, if you really want to buy new plants just to have them go dormant!

nothing wrong with that I guess..
I just thought you would get more satisfaction getting new plants in the spring..and having a whole growing season to learn about them..but you can them now if you like!
not a problem..
(I have a friend just getting interested in Bonsai..I told her the same thing, wait until Spring to buy a tree! spend all winter reading books about Bonsai!

if the air near the window stays 35-45 degrees in the winter, that would be fine for dormancy. if its just a "regular" windowsill in the kitchen, living room or bedroom, it will probably be far too warm, unless your windows are unusually drafty! if its in a cellar or attic, or a room that is not heated and not normally meant for human occupation, that would be better. you really need to have quite cold air around your plants! it needs to be as cold as a refrigrator..
If you could keep a gallon of milk fresh next to your plants,
(as fresh as it would stay in the fridge)
thats ideal! if the milk would go bad in 3 days or less, its too warm..I wouldnt go above 45 degrees for dormancy..  

there are also lots of CPs that need no dormancy at all!
Nepenthes and many sundews (Drosera Capensis for example)
dont need any dormancy at all, they can be grown all winter.
although Nepenthes are often considered "advanced"..because they generally harder to care for than other CPs, and are more demanding in their requirements..but some species are rather easy to grow.

Drosera Capensis is probably the easiest CP of them all!
just give it a tray of water (distilled or rain water)
and a bright windowsill, and its good to go forever!

Scot

 

[vft guy in SJ]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (scottychaos @ Sep. 15 2003,11:51)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">you really need to have quite cold air around your plants! it needs to be as cold as a refrigrator..
If you could keep a gallon of milk fresh next to your plants,
(as fresh as it would stay in the fridge)
thats ideal! if the milk would go bad in 3 days or less, its too warm..I wouldnt go above 45 degrees for dormancy..[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
I would have to disagree with you on this point Scot. VFTs in habitat regularly get daytime temps in dormancy in the upper 50's even as high as the low 70s on occasion. Imho photoperiod is the main trigger for dormancy, not temperature, although the 2 are interlinked. I agree that plants grown indoors (generally most people dont let their homes get much cooler than the 60's) will be too warm for dormancy. A blanket statement that says never get them warmer than 45 is not entirely accurate, and can be confusing to many of the less experienced growers.

Trixie, for more information on dormancy for VFTs please read the FAQ pages. I posted the link in my earlier reply.

Good luck
Steve

 

[Vertigo]

Yeah, isn't 35-42 or 45 degrees the range that would be considered a deep dormancy and require a lot less light? This would normally be the range in a refrigerator.

 

[scottychaos]

Steve,
I have to disagree that photoperiod is "the main trigger"

IMO, Temperature is FAR more important than photoperiod/amount of light..probably temp would rate 90%, and light only 10%, as far as "importance" for dormancy..(I just made those numbers up, no real scientific numbers there&#33

look at this this way..
Winters in the US generally have 2 parts, lower temps and less light.
yes both are a factor, but lets suppose something goes wrong, and we get 2 (hypothetical) really unusual winters.


Unusual winter #1.
light level/photoperiod drops as usual, but for some reason temps dont drop! temps stay in the 80's all winter!
so we have "winter light" but "summer temps"
will the plants go dormant?
no, not at all..the high temp will make them just keep growing.
it will basically be summer with less light.
no real dormancy.

Unusual winter #2.
Temps drop as usual, but for some reason light levels stay the same! there is no decrease in photoperiod, it stays bright and sunny all winter, but temps fall to the 30's and 40's..
will the plants go dormant?
"summer light" but "winter temps"
now the plants will go dormant!
the cool temps will trigger dormancy.
they will go dormant, but still have plenty of light..
result will still be dormancy..

I agree that temp and photoperiod are both a factor, but temp is FAR more important then photoperiod..

if you have a bright but cool winter, you will get dormancy.
if you have a dark and cool winter, you will get dormancy.
if you have a dark but warm winter, you will not get dormancy.
if you have a bright but warm winter, you will not get dormancy.
making temp the more important factor..

if there is a choice between "darker and warmer"
or "brighter and colder", I would go for colder every time!
my plants get cold and NO light for their entire dormancy..(fridge)..cool temps do it, light isnt a factor at all..(for the fridge method)

I meant 45 as an *ideal* temp..50-60 is far too warm IMO.
yes in the "wild" it might get into the 60's during the winter..but the *average* temp is 45! that should be the target..personally I would shoot for 40 as an average! lets say ideally lowest temp (for indoors windowsill dormancy) should not get much below freezing, and the higest ever, on a particularry warm winter day, shouldnt hit much more than 60..but then it should cool back down into the 40's again!
if you tried 60 ALL winter long, 60 degrees all the time, the plants definately would not go dormant..
your average, including high and low swings, should be in the 40's..thats what they get in the wild..

here is a page with some Wilmington info:
http://www.navi-gator.com/wilmington/information/weather.htm

it says "average high 55, average low 34" for January, the coldest month..
but only a very small percentage of a day is AT the actual high or low for the day..23 hours a day it somewhere in between the 2 extremes..meaning, somewhere in the mid 40's!
im standing by 45 degrees as the ideal!  

the average.
the goal.
the "target to shoot for"..

Scot

 

[trixie7777]

thanks everyone.... I think I'll wait till spring. Just to be safe.

Jenny

 

[Tony Paroubek]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Unusual winter #1.
light level/photoperiod drops as usual, but for some reason temps dont drop! temps stay in the 80's all winter!
so we have "winter light" but "summer temps"
will the plants go dormant?
no, not at all..the high temp will make them just keep growing.
it will basically be summer with less light.
no real dormancy.

Unusual winter #2.
Temps drop as usual, but for some reason light levels stay the same! there is no decrease in photoperiod, it stays bright and sunny all winter, but temps fall to the 30's and 40's..
will the plants go dormant?
"summer light" but "winter temps"
now the plants will go dormant!
the cool temps will trigger dormancy.
they will go dormant, but still have plenty of light..
result will still be dormancy..

I agree that temp and photoperiod are both a factor, but temp is FAR more important then photoperiod..

if you have a bright but cool winter, you will get dormancy.
if you have a dark but warm winter, you will not get dormancy.
making temp the more important factor..[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>

Are you sure about that? Have you tried it or have studies that have shown that to be the case?

While it is true that many plant processes are intertwined.
Life of the Green Plant Galston, Davies, Satter conclude page 334:
"The plant's measurement of seasonal changes through photoperiodism involves not only the sensing of light and dark signals, but also referral of these signals to an endogenous biological clock, whose existence is indicated by overt circadian rhythms. Rhythms have been noted in many different processes, including leaf movements, rates of photosynthesis, cell division and bioluminescence in algae, and the activity of some cellular enzymes. While the amplitude and phase of rhythmic oscillations are temperture sensitive, the period of most rhythmic events is essentially temperature independent."

Tony

 

[vft guy in SJ]

Hey Scot,
What are you basing this information on? My personal experience with VFTs contradicts what you are saying. As you know I live in California, and right now my daytime temps are averaging about 80-85 (even had a couple days last week in the 100's), and nighttime temps are generally in the low 60's. My VFTs are well into the start of dormancy now. All of them have produced several of the shorter fatter winter leaves and I expect they will be happily slumbering by early October.
Same thing in Spring when they begin to awaken. This year my plants all emerged from dormancy in early February, long before the warmer spring/summer temps arrived. As soon as the days started getting longer the plants woke up.

"I meant 45 as an *ideal* temp..50-60 is far too warm IMO.
yes in the "wild" it might get into the 60's during the winter..but the *average* temp is 45! that should be the target..personally I would shoot for 40 as an average!"
OK refering from your source of average hi/low temps for Wilmington NC. the Average high temp is 55. to make the math simple we will just say in a 7 day period, there are 2 days of 65, 1 day of 60, 1 day of 55, 1 day of 50, and 2 days of 45. there is quite a big swing in actual daytime temps there, but the AVERAGE of the 7 day total65+65+60+55+50+45+45) / 7 = 55 degrees. Same formula applies to lows.
My point on this is, lets try not to focus too hard on "constants" remember nature is anything BUT constant. There will always be extremes and exceptions to the rules. The best we can do as growers is to try to provide for our plants the closest to nature that we can givin our personal conditions.

Steve

 

[scottychaos]

well last December roses and dandelions were still blooming..(or was that 2 years ago already?)
because it stayed unusually warm..
light levels still dropped as normal.

This past Spring was "late"..a month late!
it wasnt photoperiod that caused it..photoperiod was exactly the same as every other spring..it was 100% temperature that did it...a very "cold spring"..winter holding on later than normal..snow in April..it was all temp's doing, not light.


When I bring my plants out of the refrigrator in February and put them in front of a window, they start growing.
plants outside, getting the same light but colder temps, dont start growing until April.

Spring can be "early or late" any given year..the difference is always temp, the light levels change exactly the same every year. Same with early or late autumn..always temp, never light.

people start Tomato seeds early, in a windowsill indoors, in February or March, they always start growing indoors..
they wouldnt start growing outdoors..light levels are the same, only temp is different..etc..

if you take seeds of any local plant, trees, vegetables, Cps, whatever, plant them in January, when there is 4 feet of snow outside and 10 degreesF every night, and put one pot indoors next to a window, natural light only, and put the other pot outdoors, the seeds indoors will always sprout, in January, the seeds outdoors never will.
same light, different temps..

same light and warm = growth.
same light and cold = no growth (dormancy)

I know both are a factor! im not saying light levels *dont* help trigger dormancy..im just saying temp is FAR FAR more important than light level!

Scot

 

[PlantAKiss]

Umm...did anybody notice Jenny got scared off?

Jenny, if you are still around...it is perfectly fine to buy your plant (I'm assuming its a Venus flytrap) now. There are a couple more months before it would need dormancy and that's a lot of time to enjoy your plant and learn how to care for it.

Dormancy isn't a huge issue...if its in a window where light levels will change and its kept pretty cool, that should work. And you can always put it in the fridge too.

There are other CPs for you to try as well that don't require dormancy...like nepenthes and many sundews and pings.

So don't give up on your idea of growing CPs.

Suzanne

 

[scottychaos]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (vft guy in SJ @ Sep. 15 2003,4:32)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">My point on this is, lets try not to focus too hard on "constants" remember nature is anything BUT constant. There will always be extremes and exceptions to the rules. The best we can do as growers is to try to provide for our plants the closest to nature that we can givin our personal conditions.

Steve[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
Steve, I agree..
im just saying there is a range that is "too warm" for dormancy..there is a range that is "too cold"..
and there is a range that is "just right"!

if someone said, "my windowsill averages 45 degrees in the winter..maybe a range between 35 and 55, is that good?"
I would say "prefect"!

but if someone said ""my windowsill averages 60 degrees in the winter..maybe a range between 50 and 70, is that good?"
I would say "no way..too warm"

30's and 40's excellent.
40's and 50's ok.
50's and 60's too warm, but ok if its the best you can do.
70's too warm without question.


how about if I said "if your winter temps fall anywhere between 30 and 60 degrees, (for indoors) with 30 as the lowest, and 60 as the highest, with the majority of the time somewhere in between."
would everyone agree that is reasonable?
and outside of those ranges is too warm or too cold?

I know outside they can often take even colder temps, into the 20's, but that is with heavy insulation..im talking about indoors only right now, where temps can change quicker than outdoors under heavy mulch..

Scot

 

[SnowyFalcon]

I may add that VFTs can skip dormancy and still live, though not quite as vigorously as they would had they gotten rest.

My VFT that I obtained last October from the local home improvement store did fine skipping dormancy. Personally, if it were my first plant, I would not worry too much about dormancy and just grow it as you would regularly (provided you can keep the temperature decent).

SF Give it a shot, you may be pleasantly surprised!