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VFT Dormacy

Hi, I just wondered how many people's VFT's died of the bareroot refrig. Dormacy.  Because I just put all of mine and put them in the fridge bareroot and with fungicide like the post on dormacy said to do.  It seemed like though some of them aren't in the best conditions and some parts of the bulb (the outer parts) turned black and I peeled them off leaving the healthy looking white bulb.  Will they make it through dormacy? I have several others that don't show signs of dormacy yet and was wondering if I should put them in the fridge bareroot or in a pot, or maybe in a garage where it never gets below freezing, but has very little sunlight.
Thanks,
Pete
 
The advantage to the garage is you can provide greater air circulation that this will discourage fungi. The darkness is not an issue. If the garage is on the cool side so much the better.

The black parts of the bulb are not something to worry about as long as they are the outermost parts. These are the leaf bases, and their turning black is a natural process. If the black starts eating inwards then you have worries.

I overwinter my plants in an unheated cellar where the temps are seldom higher than 45-50F and occasional freezes happen. There is very little light. I just leave them in their pots after trimming black parts off. I keep the pots just moist, and not in tray water. I have never lost a plant using this method.

I have a friend in Brazil that grows VFT's and Sarracenia. His temps. never get much below 55F and the plants continue to grow over the winter, but at a much slower rate, and produce smaller leaves and traps during the short days of their winter. With the increasing daylength of spring, the plants resume typical growth. They prosper for him, increasing in size from season to season and they flower and fruit normally.

One of the most important issues of dormancy is the photoperiod. Maintaining the plants under a natural daylength photoperiod (or less daylength, as in complete darkness) will go a long way toward maintaining their health. When the plants are given a long day photoperiod in winter, they try to keep growing, exhaust themselves and die.

I never trim any leaves that are not black. Well grown plants will maintain their leaves throughout the dormancy, and the nutrients contained in the leaves will assist the plant's early growth in the spring as well as provide nutrition by translocating and breaking down starches stored there during the dormant period when there is little or no nutrient uptake from the roots.

Temperature is a secondary consideration: cooler is better, but obviously not essential. Remember to check your plants: if they continue to grow, even if slowly, you must provide them with some watering but do not leave them standing in water until active spring growth resumes.
 
Does anyone know of VFts undergoing dormancy successfully with less photoperiod, but temps at around 28 degrees C?
 
Hey eBeyonder,
There was some debate about this subject a while back and I believe what was decided is that plants need both shorter photoperiod and cooler temps for proper dormancy. 28C is about 82F, I think that is prolly too warm for a proper dormancy. I dont know if it would kill the plant, (I suspect that it wont) but I dont know that it will be all that good for it either.
sad.gif
If you have an extra plant handy maybe you could experiment with it and see what works best for you.

Good luck
Steve
 
28C sounds too hot to me as well, but then again I have never experimented. At least you have the opportunity to advance the knowledge of what these plants will and will not accept.
 
I've been using the refrigerator technique for about 30 years now.

I've had it malfunction and freeze the plants to about 28F without any noticeable harm. I've kept them in their pots completely intact, and I've unpotted them, trimmed off all leaves and roots and kept them in a zip-loc with a little moist peat or Sphagnum moss. I've kept them in undrained containers where they were submerged under media and water. I've kept seedlings, germinated in petri dishes in the refrigerator for several years at a time --- all without loss of plants.

VFT's seem quite tolerant, yet curiously very sensitive to many environmental factors.
 
My vft and sarr collection would grow a lot more if I could say I have a handle on domancy. Till then it will stay small until I figure out how make most of my plants survive through the winter without dieing. The other problem I have is transplanting but I will not bore you with that subject.

Travis
 
I live in north Texas. What are some signs that my vfts are ready to go into dormancy? This is my first year having these guys, so if anyone can help, I'll really appreciate it.
wow.gif
 
You will know... its pretty unmistakable. The new growth will be short fat leaves that lay flat to the soil. All of the existing summer leaves will turn black and die. Then there will be very little growth at all. Check out the pics of my plant which is very nearly into its full dormancy now here: dormant pics

Steve
 
  • #10
Um.... What exactly to VFTs look like when they're entering dormancy?!?
wow.gif
 
  • #11
I think the growth slows down and produce smaller traps but it never happens to my vft durning this time of the year. Actually Sept, Oct, and Nov, are my best growing of months but that all ends. Once Thanksgiving is past I put them (vfts) into dormancy whether they like it or not. So I can not really help you - Maybe confuse you but that is about it
biggrin.gif
.

Travis
 
  • #12
[b said:
Quote[/b] (CaptainDrosera @ Nov. 04 2003,7:14)]Um.... What exactly to VFTs look like when they're entering dormancy?!?  
wow.gif
What the? Did you not read my post directly above yours? Look at the pics I provided lol

Steve
 
  • #13
Okay. My plants are behaving like they are ready to be dormant, as described by vft guy in SJ.

Now, my question is what would be the best way to care for them / treat them during this period.  As I've stated above, I live in north Texas, and the temperatures are generally a little higher than in the Carolinas.

Here are some average highs and lows in my area from weather.com:

Nov  65°F  45°F  
Dec  56°F  37°F
Jan  54°F  34°F  
Feb  60°F  39°F


rock.gif
I've heard many different techniques on vft dormancy. If anyone has any know-how they are willing to share on a good suggestion of what to do, please let me know.
biggrin.gif
 
  • #14
Hi Butthead.. Dormancy should be very simple for you. Put the plant outside, preferably under an overhang where it will be protected from rain and frost. Water it enough to keep the soil moist but not wet or sitting in water. Thats it.. the plant does the rest on its own. You should have no problems at all with that temp range. If you are worried, you can bring them indoors on the very coldest nights.

Good luck
Steve
 
  • #15
wink.gif
Thanks! I appreciate it.
(whew!)
 
  • #16
What should happen first?

The plant lettign me know it wants to sleep?


Or me telling the plant its time to go to sleep?
 
  • #17
If you just keep it outside, it will go dormant when it needs to. No woorries for outdoor growers of these plants regarding dormancy: the short days will initiate dormancy.
 
  • #18
I live in Ohio. Here the temperature gets well below the teen mark. Is it possible to leave my vfts outside in these temps?? Do vfts need big pots, or just large enough be covered by the leaves?

Otis
 
  • #20
^ I've been wondering the same thing myself. All indicators point to a severe winter for us in Virginia, and the earliest I'd be able to put the plants outside for dormancy is about mid-late december (Visiting relatives for thanksgiving, won't be home till xmas). I'm a bit hesitant to use fridge dormancy, since my parents, mostly my mom, have black thumbs when it comes to indoor plants, so I fear their lack of attention could lead to my plants succumbing to mold (I also don't trust them to be careful applying fungicide).

The plants would be put into dormancy in Roanoke, Va. Some monthly averages:
December: 49-30 F
January:45-27 F
February: 49-29 F
March: 58-36 F

It's not so much the temperatures as the potential for winter weather that worries me. Usually in the winter we tend to get snow and ice, if anything at all, and temps sometimes dip into the teens at night. Would VFTs and Sarras be able to tolerate this? Could they be brought inside during bad weather/ insanely cold night, or would they suffer temperature shock? Is december too late, or would I just have to thaw them out later?  I've already reduced the photoperiod to about 8-7 hours a day, and the VFTs seem to be putting out smaller leaves again, and my D. rotundifolia has already withdrawn into a hibernacula. Thanks for any advice!
 
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